Last Updated on May 1, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

glycolic acid complete guide

Are you still exfoliating with scrubs? It’s time to switch things up and give glycolic acid a try. I know, I know, scrubs can be addictive. But so can glycolic. I’ve never met anyone who made the switch and went back to scrubs.

Glycolic acid is an exfoliant on steroids. It gets rid of dead cells, hydrates your skin, and keeps wrinkles at bay. Can your scrub keep up with that? In case you’re still on the fence, I’ve put together this complete guide to glycolic acid. By the end, you’ll be ready to ditch scrubs for good. I promise. 🙂

What Is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid belongs to the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) family, a group of exfoliants derived from milk and plants. Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane. But the type used in skincare products is usually made in a lab.

Glycolic acid is the most famous member of the family. And kind of the main character in the AHA squad. Lactic acid’s the sensitive one, mandelic’s the acne nerd, and glycolic? She’s the overachiever who’s exfoliating, brightening, hydrating, AND helping with collagen, all before your morning coffee.

And yes, she’s intense. Because it’s the smallest AHA, it can get deeper into your skin than other AHAs or scrubs. While your apricot scrub is just pushing dead skin around on the surface, glycolic acid is getting rid of them and giving you all these extra benefits. Translation: Glycolic Acid works better and faster than all other exfoliants.

Related: AHAs VS BHA: Which One Is Right For YOU?


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Is Glycolic Acid An Effective Exfoliant?

Glycolic acid’s main job is exfoliation. Here’s what’s really going on: your skin naturally sheds dead cells, but as you get older (or stressed, or tired, or just… alive), that process slows way down. So dead skin starts piling up, making your face look dull, rough, and kind of meh.

Glycolic acid fixes that. It breaks down the little protein bonds (think of them like glue) that hold all those crusty old cells in place. Without the glue, those dead cells finally fall off, and the fresher, smoother skin underneath comes out. Dark spots? Start fading. Fine lines? Look less obvious. That weird texture on your cheeks? Smoother.

Related: 10 Reasons Why You Need To Exfoliate

sunday riley good genes glycolic acid treatment

Is Glycolic Acid Better Than Physical Scrubs?

“Ungluing” dead skin cells is a much better way to get rid of them than manual exfoliation. When you scrub your skin with sugar, apricot kernels, or plastic microbeads, you may spend a few seconds more on one area and less on another. You may remove more dead cells, let’s say, on the forehead and fewer on your cheeks.

Plus, scrubs can irritate skin. Apricot kernels are the worst culprits, but anything with rough and jarred edges can scratch skin. Spend a few seconds too long on one area and it’ll get all red and irritated. Compare that with Glycolic acid. You apply that all over, getting a more even and precise exfoliation WITHOUT lacerations.

Related: Physical VS Chemical Exfoliation: What’s The Difference?

Can Glycolic Acid Treat Sun Damage?

If better exfoliation alone isn’t enough to make you switch, how about this? Glycolic acid can make you look younger. Scrubs only remove dead cells from the surface of your skin. That’s it. Glycolic acid goes the extra mile. At 10%+ concentrations, it boosts collagen production, too.

Collagen is the protein that keeps your skin firm and elastic. The more collagen your skin has, the longer it keeps sagging and wrinkling at bay. Scientists think this is how Glycolic acid helps reduce the fine lines and wrinkles you already have, too.

Related: 8 Science-Backed Ways To Replenish Lost Collagen

the ordinary glycolic acid toning solution

Is Glycolic Acid Hydrating?

Wait… there’s more! Glycolic acid moisturizes skin, too. This acid increases the levels of hyaluronic acid in the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a moisture magnet that can hold 1000 times its weight in water! Once your skin has all that moisture, it stays soft all day and looks plumper, too.

So if your skin’s been feeling dry, tight, or just kinda shriveled (you know that dehydrated raisin look?), glycolic might be your unexpected MVP. It clears the way and tells your skin, “Hey, make more of the good stuff.” Just don’t forget to seal it in with a good moisturiser after. Glycolic opens the door—your moisturiser is what seals it in.

Related: Why You Should Add Hyaluronic Acid To Your Skincare Routine

nip + fab glycolic fix liquid glow extreme 6% review

Glycolic Acid Side Effects

I wish I could tell you there are none… but that wouldn’t be true. Even roses have thorns…

  • It makes your skin more sensitive to the sun: Glycolic acid speeds up cell turnover, which is great for glow, but not so great when you step outside. Your fresh baby skin is more vulnerable to UV damage – even if it’s cloudy out. Fix? Sunscreen. Every. Single. Day. No excuses.
  • It can sting or tingle at first: Especially if your barrier’s already a little mad at you. A slight tingling is normal when you first start. But if it burns, that’s a nope. Rinse it off.
  • High concentrations can irritate the hell out of your skin: Peels with 20%+ glycolic? Leave those to the pros. Start with 5–10% at home and give your skin time to adjust.
  • Don’t mix it with everything: If you’re using retinoids, acne meds, or anything intense, adding glycolic might be too much. More isn’t always better. Sometimes it’s just angry red face.
  • Overdoing it can wreck your skin barrier: If you’re using glycolic daily, plus a scrub, plus retinol… yeah, your skin will fight back. Think dryness, flaking, redness. Not cute.

Bottom line: glycolic is powerful, but it’s not a “more = better” situation. Go slow, moisturise like it’s your religion, and wear sunscreen like your glow depends on it. Because it does.

Related: These 5 Skincare Treatments Can Damage Skin When Abused


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Is Purging Normal With Glycolic Acid?

Yep, it can totally happen. Purging is like your skin clearing its throat. It’s speeding up cell turnover, so all the clogged gunk comes to the surface faster. It’s annoying, I know. But if you’re seeing breakouts in your usual breakout zones, give it a few weeks before panicking. If the breakouts are all over or painful, though, it could be irritation instead. Pull back, chill for a bit, then reintroduce slowly.

Related: Purging VS Breakouts: What’s The Difference (And What Should You Do?)

Can You Use Glycolic Acid If You’re Pregnant Or Breastfeeding?

Here’s the deal: there’s not enough solid research to say glycolic acid is 100% safe during pregnancy or breastfeeding, so most experts play it safe and recommend skipping it.

Yes, some derms say low percentages (like under 5–7%) might be okay. But let’s be real: when you’re growing or feeding a tiny human, “might be okay” isn’t exactly reassuring.

If you still want a glow, go for something gentler. Lactic acid is a safer bet and a solid exfoliator. It doesn’t penetrate as deeply as glycolic, but it still gets the job done without the risk.

Related: What Skincare Ingredients Should You Avoid During Pregnancy?

nip + fab glycolic fix overnight purifying gel

Who Should Use Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid ain’t for everyone. It’s a godsend for:

  • Dry skin: It exfoliates and hydrates at the same time.
  • Mature skin: It exfoliates and fights wrinkles at the same time.

Instead, avoid it if you have:

  • Oily, acne-prone skin: Opt for salicylic acid, an exfoliant that unclog pores from within. It’s the only acid that gets rid of acne.
  • Sensitive skin: Glycolic acid may be too harsh for your skin type. Lactic acid or a washcloth are better options for you.

Related: Glycolic Acid VS Lactic Acid: Which One Is Right For You?

jan marini bioglycolic cleanser

How Much And How Often Should You Use Glycolic Acid?

PROFESSIONAL PEELS

If you want fast results, you need to get peels. They use between 20-70% Glycolic acid – but they’re super harsh on the skin. Don’t even think of buying them from Amazon. You can seriously destroy your skin. Save yourself the pain and go to a professional.

OTC EXFOLIANTS

OTC concentrations are much lower (<15%) so they work more slowly. They can irritate skin too, but not as severely. Still, start small. Use 5% a couple of times a week and slowly increase both dose and frequency. 

CLEANSERS

FYI, while we’re on the subject, don’t bother with cleansers with Glycolic acid. Glycolic acid needs to stay on the skin for hours to work its magic. Rinse it down the drain and you won’t see much of an improvement.

Related: Do Exfoliating Cleansers Work?

What Time Of Day Should You Use Glycolic Acid?

Nighttime, babe. Always nighttime. Glycolic acid makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, so using it in the morning is asking for trouble (and pigmentation). It’s true you can get away with that by piling on the sunscreen. But let’s be honest: are you using enough – and replying during the day? If not, use Glycolic Acid at night. Period.

Can You Use Glycolic Acid With Other Acids Or Actives?

Ah, the million-dollar question: can you mix your acids like a cocktail? Kinda. You can pair glycolic acid with other actives, but you’ve gotta play matchmaker carefully.

  • Salicylic acid + Glycolic Acid: Great combo for combination skin BUT only if they’re formulated in the same product. Otherwise, you risk overexfoliating your skin and causing redness, irritation, and all kinds of drama. As a rule, if you have pimples/blackheads, opt for salicylic acid. If your priority is anti-aging or dark spots, go with Glycolic.
  • Vitamin C + Glycolic Acid: Not a great brunch date. They’re both acidic and can irritate the heck out of your skin if used together. I recommend you use Vitamin C in the morning and Glycolic Acid at night.
  • Retinol + Glycolic Acid: OOF. Only if your barrier is made of steel. Otherwise, you’ll be redder than a tomato in a tanning bed. I like to use them on alternate nights. One night glycolic acid, one night retinol, and so on.
  • Hyaluronic acid/Niacinamide + Glycolic Acid: Layering glycolic acid with hydrating stuff like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide is always a great idea. They’re the calm, reliable friends your glycolic acid needs to balance out the party.

Related: Mix And Match: Which Skincare Ingredients You Should Never Use Together

Can You Use Glycolic Acid Around The Eyes?

Absolutely not. Unless you want to cry literal acid tears. The skin around your eyes is crazy thin and delicate. Glycolic acid would bulldoze through it like a wrecking ball. Keep it far, far away from that area. Use a gentle eye cream instead, and let glycolic stick to your cheeks, chin, forehead and nose.

Can You Use Glycolic Acid On Your Body?

1000% yes – and you should. If you’ve got KP (those tiny bumps on the back of your arms), strawberry legs, or a bumpy booty, glycolic acid body lotions are a freakin’ game changer. Same rules apply: don’t overdo it, moisturise after, and wear sunscreen on any area that sees daylight.

What Are The Best Products With Glycolic Acid?

  • Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): This exfoliant contains two exfoliants. Glycolic Acid to fade away dark spots and Salicylic Acid to unclog pores. Available at Cult BeautySephora and SpaceNK
  • Paula’s Choice Resist Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA ($33.00): A wonderful low strength Glycolic Acid exfoliant that makes skin softer, smoother, and brighter. Available at Paula’s Choice 
  • The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution (£6.80): A gentle, no-frills Glycolic Acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Beauty BayCult BeautyThe Ordinary, and Ulta

The Bottom Line

Glycolic acid is an antiaging superstar. It exfoliates, hydrates, brightens, fades dark spots and wrinkles and even boosts collagen. Good luck finding a scrub that does all that!