Last Updated on April 28, 2026 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

And the trial of chemical UV filter continues… Last week Octinoxate was on the witness’ stand. Now, it’s the turn of Octocrylene. This UV filter is accused of causing allergies, premature aging, and destroying your health. Is all this true or have the rumours got out of hand once again? Let’s examine the evidence to find out what Octocrylene does and if it is safe in sunscreens:
Octocrylene: What Is It And What Does It Do?
Octocrylene is a UV filter that protects from ALL UVB but only short UVA rays (it still lets those pesky long UVA rays through). At first glance, it seems more powerful than most UV filters. Most of them protects only from one type of UV rays. This does double (but not broad-spectrum – huge difference there!) duty. Problem is, Octocrylene is very weak. Used alone, it wouldn’t be able to keep you safe from UV harm. So, why do brands bother to use it? Octocrylene has a few tricks up its sleeve most other UV filters don’t:
- It makes sunscreens water-resistant
- It helps prevent unstable UV filters (like avobenzone) from degrading and becoming useless when exposed to sunlight
- It boosts the effectiveness of other UV filters
- It helps coat the skin better
No wonder it’s so popular! FIY, both in Europe and USA, Octocrylene can only be used in concentrations up to 12%.
Related: Is Avobenzone In Sunscreen Dangerous?
Is your sunscreen up to the job? Download your free “Sunscreen Audit” cheatsheet below to make sure your sunscreen is both safe AND effective:
Does Octocrylene Cause Allergies?
Some of the rumours are indeed true. Octocrylene IS an allergen. In 2010, the Archives Of Dermatology found that it “appears to be a strong allergen leading to contact dermatitis in children and mostly photoallergic contact dermatitis in adults with an often-associated history of photoallergy from ketoprofen [a pain reliever].
“Patients with photoallergy from ketoprofen frequently have positive photopatch test reactions to Octocrylene. These patients need to be informed of sunscreen products not containing Octocrylene, Benzophenone-3, or fragrances.” Let’s put things into perspective now: only a minority of the population is allergic to Octocrylene. No need to panic here. But if you’re allergic to ketoprofen or have sensitive skin, avoid Octocrylene.
Related: Is Fragrance In Skincare As Bad As Paula Begoun Says?
Does Octocrylene Break Down Into Benzophenone?
A 2021 study published in Chemical Research in Toxicology found that octocrylene can degrade over time and form benzophenone (a substance that’s “a mutagen, carcinogen and endocrine disruptor”) in sunscreen products. The researchers were pretty clear: “benzophenone accumulates over time from the degradation of octocrylene.”
That sounds terrifying until you add the missing context. First off, the researchers only looked at studies done in vitro (on a petri-dish) and on animals. There’s no proof this applies to humans as well. Unfortunately, we can’t say for certain this doesn’t apply to humans at all, which is why some countries are banning it.
Also, formulators are aware of this issue, which most affects OLDER sunscreens. Older products can build up higher levels of benzophenone as they age. Stop using expired sunscreen. If that bottle has been living in your beach tote since two summers ago, it’s time to let it go.
Can Octocrylene Cause Free Radicals?
Now, let’s examine the other charge. Does Octocrylene causes wrinkles and nasty diseases? A 2006 study shows that Octocrylene is absorbed into the skin and causes the formation of free radicals when exposed to light. Free radicals don’t just cause wrinkles. They also damage DNA and lead to cancer.
Scary huh? Again, don’t panic. The study shows Octocrylene can can cause free radicals, not cancer. Even breathing causes free radicals, but you don’t stop doing it, do you? Until scientists get to the bottom of the matter and find out just how damaging the free radicals made by Octocrylene really are, use this UV filter together with antioxidants-rich serums. Antioxidants are little warriors that destroy free radicals. Problem solved. 🙂
Related: What Are The Best Antioxidants-Rich Serums?
What Are The Best Sunscreens With Octocrylene?
- La Roche-Posay Anthelios Clear Skin Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 60 ($20.99): A water-resistant, oil-free sunscreen even oily skin will love Available at Dermstore and Ulta
- Paula’s Choice RESIST Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid Broad Spectrum SPF 50 ($39.00): A lightweight sunscreen loaded with antioxidants to fight premature aging. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK
FAQs
Is octocrylene safe during pregnancy or breastfeeding?
Right now, there’s no solid evidence showing octocrylene causes harm during pregnancy or breastfeeding when it’s used in normal sunscreen amounts. At the same time, researchers do know that some sunscreen filters can get absorbed into the body in tiny amounts. But here’s the part people often miss: absorption doesn’t automatically mean danger. The FDA has looked at this and basically said, “okay, we can detect it in the body, but that doesn’t tell us it’s causing harm – we need more data.” Because of that, a lot of dermatologists lean a bit more cautious during pregnancy and suggest mineral sunscreens instead.
Is octocrylene an endocrine disruptor?
Yes, some lab studies suggest octocrylene may show hormone-related activity under certain conditions. But here’s the part people conveniently leave out: those findings often come from cell studies or high-dose animal models, not from normal sunscreen use in humans. That distinction matters. A substance can behave one way in a lab dish and another way entirely in the real world. Right now, there’s no strong evidence showing that octocrylene causes meaningful hormonal disruption in everyday sunscreen users.
Why is octocrylene banned or restricted in some places?
Octocrylene is not broadly banned worldwide, but it is facing scrutiny and calls to ban it. In places like Hawaii, legislation has focused on sunscreen ingredients considered potentially harmful to marine ecosystems, not human life. That said, octocrylene remains approved for use in many markets, including the U.S. and Europe, within regulated concentration limits. In the EU and U.S., it is typically allowed up to 10-12% depending on product category and jurisdiction.
The Verdict: Should You Avoid Octocrylene?
If you’re allergic to Octocrylene, stop using it immediately. Obvs. If you’re not allergic to it, it depends. If you want its water-resistant benefits and are willing to slather on an antioxidants serum (something you should do anyway 😉 ), keep using it. But if you’re not comfortable with the idea of your sunscreen causing free radicals, give it a pass.
Another excellent article, giving me information on something I did not even suspect. Thank you so much!
Marianthi, you’re welcome. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
I just bought a spray sunscreen and was so amazed that unlike mineral sunscreen, it’s not greasy. And not to mention, I bought the expensive one. I got so excited, I searched on to what to put first ㅡ moisturizer or sunscreen. Along my research I end up in this article and other articles saying that the ingredient of my newly bought sunscreen is not actually safe for the face. Let alone the whole body. Gosh. I am so disappointed! ???
Ariane, if you’re not allergic to octocrylene, there’s no reason to stop using it. Just apply an antioxidant serum first to neutralise free radicals.