Wanna jump on the retinoid bandwagon but are scared they’ll turn your skin into a flaky, peeling mess?
I hear ya. You’ve heard that retinoid are the gold standard for antiaging. They reduce wrinkles. Shrink pores. Fade away dark spots.
You want yourself some of that. But you’re not keen on the adjustment period. You’ve gotta go to work. Have a social life. How can you leave the house when your skin is flaking worse than dried paint?!
Surely, there must be a way to enjoy that retinoid face without putting up with the peeling?
Yes. But first, let’s get to know retinoids a little bit better and find out why they behave like that in the first place:
What Are Retinoids And Why Should You Use Them?
Retinoids are forms of Vitamin A. The most common are:
- Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
- Retinyl Palmitate
- Retinyl Retinoate
- Tretinoin (retinoic acid – prescription only)
Basically, if there’s a “retin” in there, it’s a form of vitamin A.
The catch? Almost of all them must be converted into retinoid acid to work. The conversion looks like this.
Retinyl palmitate > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic acid
Usually, the further away a form of Vitamin A is from retinoic acid, the less effective BUT gentler it is.
Retinoids help your skin in many ways:
- Accelerate cellular turnover (your skin’s natural exfoliating process)
- Boost the production of collagen, which firms skin
- Bust acne
- Fight the free radicals that cause wrinkles
- Reduce the appearance of dark spots
- Shrink the size of pores
The price to pay? Retinization.
Related: 8 Science-Backed Ways To Rebuild Lost Collagen
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
What Is Retinization?
Retinization is a fancy way to call the inevitable adjustment period. Six weeks of red, flaky mess even the best makeup in the world can’t hide (it just makes it look worse!). *sighs*
It’s enough to make you want to throw in the towel and forget this retinoid business altogether. Big mistake. This mess is a sign your retinoid is working.
Here’s the deal: retinoids speed up cellular turnover, i.e. the skin’s natural exfoliating process. This is NOT the same as “proper” exfoliation done with acids or scrubs (these REMOVE dead cells either manually or by dissolving the “glue” that holds them together).
But the result is similar. Retinoids make your skin cells turn over at a faster rate so now you have more dead cells on the surface of your skin. Hence the peeling.
But do you really have to put up with it? Here’s how to counteract the peeling effects of retinoids:
How To Minimize The Peeling From Retinoids:
There are a few ways. I encourage you to use them all for best results, especially if you’re using a prescription retinoid:
1. Don’t Stop
This is where most women go wrong. They see their faces turn into a flaky mess and stop using retinoids until it’s completely back to normal. The next time they use it, the peeling starts again. Before you know it, retinoids become something they use only once in a while. Or worse, quit completely.
When you do this, your skin is reverting back into beginner mode. You didn’t give it enough time to get used to retinoids so now it acts like you’re using them for the first time. Every time.
Once you introduce a retinoid into your skincare routine, stick with it. It’s ok to cut back frequency (I will show you how soon) but don’t stop using it completely.
The only exception? If your skin is so sensitive that even after trying all the tips in this post, the peeling stubbornly persist after 6 weeks, give up. Retinoids just don’t agree with your skin.
2. Start Small
If you’re starting your retinoid journey with Retin A or another prescription retinoid, the peeling is a done deal. There’s a reason why they’re prescription after all. The side effects are much more severe.
Unless they were prescribed by your doctor for a specific condition, it’s better for your skin (and your self-esteem) to start with a low dose of an OTC retinoid, like retinol.
Even so, start with the smallest concentration you can find. Believe it or not, 1% is HUGE for retinol. This is the stuff the PROs use. It’s the closest thing to a prescription retinoid you can find.
0.01%-0.3% is more than enough for beginners. Really. Retinoids are so powerful, a tiny bit goes a long, long way.
If your skin’s sensitive, I recommend you start with gentler forms of retinoids, like retinyl palmitate and hydroxypinacolone retinoate. They’re not as effective as retinol but they’re so gentle, they’re unlikely to irritate your skin. (Seriously, if your skin can’t take this, retinoids are definitely NOT for you).
- Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum With Retinol ($34.00): available at Paula’s Choice
- Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol ($34.00): available at Paula’s Choice
- The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% In Squalane (£7.80): available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, and Sephora
Related: What Strength Of Retinol Do You Really Need?
3. Go Slow
Retinoids are not like other skincare products. You can’t use them every day and expect them to give you gorgeous skin. You have to work your way up there.
When you first start out, use retinoids only twice a week. As your skin gets used to them (you’ll know when this happens – your skin will look smooth and radiant instead than red and flaky), build up frequency gradually.
Overtime, some of you may be able to use retinoids daily. Others may want to stick to 3/4 times a week. I personally use retinol only every other night (I alternate it with glycolic acid).
Related: The Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid: What It Is, What It Does, And How To Use It
4. Moisturise, Moisturize, Moisturize
Don’t wait for your skin to peel before doing something about it. You know retinoids are gonna dry out your skin and peel it like a potato so be proactive and slather on that moisturiser before the problem starts.
Every night, straight after retinoids or at the end of your skincare routine (if you have a longer night-time routine), slather on that moisturiser.
If you find this alone isn’t enough, switch to a richer formula. Facial oils work well too.
P.S. If you have sensitive skin or are using a prescription retinoid, consider putting on your moisturiser before the retinoid product. Yes, this may prevent some of the retinoid to penetrate through your skin – but that’s what makes the retinoid gentler and less likely to make your skin peel.
5. Let Retinoids Play Solo
Look, I get it. You want to use all the good antiaging stuff. Like vitamin C to fight wrinkles and glycolic acid to exfoliate skin. The more the merrier, right?
Not really. All these ingredients are super powerful and your skin needs time to get used to them. Use them all together and the red, flaky mess is guaranteed.
Don’t get me wrong. Depending on how resistant your skin is, overtime you may be able to use two or three of them together.
But when you’re starting out, it’s best to let retinoids play solo. Remove all the other powerful actives from your skincare routine and reintroduce them once your skin has gotten used to the retinoid.
My skin is used to high concentration of retinol but I still alternate it with glycolic acid at night. I could use them together but I believe in treating my skin gently. In the morning, I use vitamin C. This way, I can fit all the good stuff into my skincare routine without bothering my skin.
P.S. While we’re on the subject, don’t use exfoliating scrubs, Clarisonic or anything else that could irritate your skin. The simpler and shorter your skincare routine is in the earlier stages, the better.
The Bottom Line
You can jump on the retinoid train or up your dose without putting up with flaky skin. The trick is to adjust your skincare routine accordingly. Go basic, moisturise the heck out of your skin and go slow. This is a marathon, not a race.