What Is Sebum (And Why You Need It)?

Last Updated on June 7, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

I have a riddle for your today: What is your skin’s BFF and its worst enemy at the same time? It’s frenemy, you know?

Ok, I’ll tell you… Sebum.

When skin makes just enough of it, a miracle happens: your skin is perfectly moisturized. It is soft to the touch. It’s plumper. It glows. It’s healthy. It looks awesome. But when skin produces too little or too much? Then all kinds of problems begin. Flakiness. Infections. Breakouts. It’s hell.  No wonder we all love to hate on sebum!

But I feel sorry for the poor guy. Ok, it often doesn’t do its job as well as it should, but without it, your skin would be a lot worse off. Here’s why:

What Is Sebum?

You’re probably referring to sebum as oil without even realising it. That’s what sebum is: a mixture of oils and waxes. It’s made up of 41% triglycerides, 25% wax monoesters, 16% fatty acids, and 12% squalene, to be exact.

Sebaceous glands create sebum for you. You have them all over your body, except the palms of your hands and the soles of your feet (that’s why they never get oily). Unlike the forehead, chin, and middle portion on the back, which often tend to get shiny and are more prone to breakouts. We have a TON of sebaceous glands there (roughly 2,600 to 5,800 per square inch!).

Hormones regulate the production of sebum. That’s why it’s mostly teenagers who get acne. Or why lots of women who are experiencing menopause suddenly find themselves dealing with bad breakouts for the first time. Like many other things (think collagen), sebum decreases with age. Cue dry skin as you hit menopause. Yep, sebum can be a pain at any age.

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Is Sebum The Same As Sweat?

Nope, not even close. Sweat’s that watery stuff that keeps you cool when it’s hot out. Sebum’s the oily stuff that hangs out on your face and sometimes makes you look shiny. People mix them up all the time because, let’s be real, both can leave your skin looking like a disco ball. But sweat’s about cooling you down, and sebum’s about keeping your skin from drying out. So yeah, two different things, both annoying sometimes, but your skin needs them.

Can You Wash Sebum Away?

Kinda, but not really. Washing your face can get rid of the extra oil on top, but your skin’s still gonna make more. If you scrub too much, your skin freaks out and makes even more oil-like, “Uh-oh, we’re dry, let’s make more!” So go easy. Think gentle, not squeaky clean.

What Does Sebum Do For The Skin?

Sorry ladies, but sebum is essential for the skin. Without it, skin doesn’t function well. So, what does sebum do? Sebum is the skin’s natural moisturizer. It creates a waterproof barrier on the skin that keeps moisture in and pollutants, germs, and other nasty stuff out. When your skin has enough of it, it looks hydrated. Softer. Plumper. Glowy, even.

What Happens When Your Skin Doesn’t Make Enough Sebum?

You have dry skin.cWithout enough sebum, the skin’s protective barrier lacks its most important building blocks, so it breaks up all over the place. Moisture evaporates, leaving skin feeling and looking as dry as the desert. If it gets really bad, it even starts to flake. Bacteria, toxins, and a whole bunch of not-so-nice stuff can get inside the body, leaving skin red and irritated. When this happens, you need to use skincare products that repair the skin’s barrier. And, of course, you need to treat your skin super gently so you won’t make things worse.

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Related: How To Care For Dry Skin

What Happens When Your Skin Produces Too Much Sebum?

You have oily skin. The excess oil your skin produces gets trapped in the pores where it mixes with dead skin cells and other gunk in there. Your pores get clogged. You get pimples.  Blackheads. Whiteheads. It’s breakout galore. Oh, some oil stays on the surface of your skin too. It makes it shine like a frying pan. When that happens, you need to use skincare products that keep the production of sebum under control and absorb any excess.

Need help creating the best skincare routine for you oily skin? Sign up to the newsletter below to receive the “Oily Skincare Routine Cheatsheet” (it includes product recommendations, too!).

Related: How To Care For Oily Skin

Can Weather Mess With Sebum?

Oh, for sure. Think about it: in winter, your skin’s basically freezing its butt off. So, it’s like, “Nope, I’m not making much oil today,” and you end up all dry and flaky. Then, summer rolls around and it’s like, “Let’s go full-on oil factory!” and suddenly you’re shinier than a donut.

Humidity’s the worst – makes your skin feel like it’s sweating AND oily all at once. Ugh. And don’t even get me started on air conditioning or indoor heating. That stuff just messes with your oil balance, too. So yeah, the weather’s got your skin on a constant roller coaster.

Can You Actually Control Sebum Production?

Eh, sort of. You can’t exactly boss your skin around and tell it to chill on the oil, but you can definitely help keep it from going overboard. Stuff like salicylic acid, niacinamide, and retinoids can help dial it down a notch, so you’re not a total greaseball. Just remember, your skin still needs some oil to stay happy, so don’t go stripping it all away or you’ll end up in an even bigger mess.

The Bottom Line

Your skin needs sebum, so learn to get along with it. Understand how it works, so you can help your skin get just the right amount it needs to stay healthy and moisturized.