I know what you’re thinking, “Vitamin C for sensitive skin?! Isn’t that like milk for lactose-intolerance? Trouble?”
It can be. Vitamin C has a (well-deserved!) rep for being stingy, irritating and harsh AF. Ouch! If you’ve got sensitive skin, it’s easy to think you’d be better off without it.
Vitamin C is more sensitive-skin friendly than you give it credit for. You just have to choose the right type (yep, there’s more than one!). Here’s what I mean…
Why The Heck Should You Use Vitamin C For Sensitive Skin?
For the same reason why everyone else should use vitamin C. It’s an antiaging superstar. Studies show that vitamin C has several superpowers:
- Antioxidant: it destroys free radicals before they give you wrinkles and dark spots
- Brightening: it fades away dark spots and give the complexion a lovely glow
- Firming: it boosts the production of collagen, the protein that keeps your skin firm
Vitamin C works wonders on its own, but it’s even more powerful when used with its BFFs vitamin E and ferulic acid. Together, they BOOST photoprotection and make your sunscreen work better.
Do you really want to miss out on all this goodness?!
Related: 5 Antiaging Superstars You Should Add To Your Skincare Routine
What’s The Problem With Vitamin C For Sensitive Skin?
When someone says vitamin C is irritating, they’re usually referring to L-Ascorbic Acid, the pure form of vitamin C.
L-Ascorbic Acid packs such a punch, it can make your skin tingle and sting – especially in high doses (15% and up). It doesn’t help it works only at a low pH (around 3.5)… yep, that can bother your sensitive skin, too.
So, where does that leave you? If you have sensitive skin, you have two options:
- Go with a lower dose of L-Ascorbic Acid
- Use a vitamin C derivative
Related: Vitamin C In Skincare: Pros & Cons
Let’s see which one is right for you:
Option #1: Lower Dose Of L-Ascorbic Acid
Let me guess: you’re about to say there’s no point using a low concentration of L-Ascorbic Acid. Everyone knows that less than 15% doesn’t work, right?
This may shock you but… that’s a myth.
I guess it started because studies are usually done with high doses of L-Ascorbic Acid. Take the one that proved the benefits of CEF (vitamin C + vitamin E + ferulic acid), for example. Researchers used 15% L-Ascorbic Acid for that.
But that doesn’t mean that lower concentrations are useless. Sure, 1% L-Ascorbic Acid won’t do anything for you. But studies show that already at 3%, L-Ascorbic Acid helps improve the signs of photodamage and premature aging (you know, wrinkles, dark spots and all that malarkey).
If your skin’s sensitive, you can go up to 10% without experiencing any irritation. Granted, you’ll see results more slowly than someone who’s using 20% but you’ll still see results. And that’s what matters.
- Obagi Professional-C Serum 10 Percent ($77.00): available at Beauty Encounter and Dermstore
- Skinceuticals Serum 10 AOX+ ($70.00): available at Adore Beauty, Blue Mercury, Dermstore and Skinstore
SHOP LOW DOSE L-ASCORBIC ACID SERUMS
Option #2: Use A Vitamin C Derivative
Few people have the patience to put up with L-Ascorbic Acid. It’s irritating, unstable and goes bad quickly (FYI, if your vitamin C serum has turned brown, toss it – it doesn’t work anymore).
That’s why scientists have been hard at work to create derivatives of L-Ascorbic Acid that do the same thing minus the side effects.
The catch? They’re a little less effective than L-Ascorbic Acid but you still get enough benefits to make the trade-off worth it.
The real question is, which derivative to choose? There are a gazillion out there. I prefer vitamin C derivatives that are well-studied (so many aren’t!) and work at a skin-friendly pH. Here are my picks:
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: one of the most studied form of vitamin C, it has a neutral pH.
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: another gentle derivative with a skin-friendly pH.
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: an oil-soluble form that penetrates deeper than all other derivatives (and even L-Ascorbic Acid itself) and is stable at a <5 pH.
- Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum ($33.99): Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate + vitamin E + ferulic acid. Available at Free People, iHerb and Ulta.
- Paula’s Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Serum ($38.00): Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate + Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate + vitamin E + ferulic acid + superoxide dismutase. Available at Dermstore, Look Fantastic, Nordstrom and Paula’s Choice
- Peter Thomas Roth Potent C Power Serum ($95.00): Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate + vitamin E + ferulic acid. Available at Blue Mercury, Nordstrom, Sephora and Ulta
- The Ordinary Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% (£7.80): Asos, Beauty Bay and Cult Beauty
Related: Types Of Vitamin C In Skincare
SHOP VITAMIN C DERIVATIVES SERUMS
The Bottom Line
Vitamin C for sensitive skin? I’m all for it. Just make sure you use a gentle, skin-friendly form that gives you all the antiaging benefits without the irritating side effects. I’d start with a derivative and build my way up to 10% L-Ascorbic Acid. 😉
What’s your take on vitamin C for sensitive skin? Share your thoughts and fave picks in the comments below.