Are They Dupes?: SK-II Facial Treatment Essence VS Missha Time Revolution The First Essence 5X

Last Updated on August 6, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

Word on the street is that Missha Time Revolution The First Essence 5X is a dupe for SK-II Facial Treatment Essence. But before we go there, what the heck are essences and do you need one? They seem to have popped up out of nowhere, but apparently, the Koreans have been using them for decades. Essences are similar to serums, but they are more lightweight and hydrating.

Hydration is the key word here. The main job of an essence is to add an extra layer of hydration. The Koreans are obsessed with hydration, because they know it’s what makes their skin glow, keeps it soft and supple, and even helps the other skincare products they apply next better penetrate their skin.

I wouldn’t say they are a must, but, if you wanted to add one to your skincare routine, which of the two should you choose? Is the outrageously expensive SK-II really the best bet or can Missha give it a good run for its money? Here’s how they compare:

What Ingredients Do These Essences Have In Common?

YEAST TO STRENGTHEN THE SKIN’S PROTECTIVE BARRIER

Let’s clear up some confusion first. If you have a bottle of SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, the first ingredient may be named Saccharomicopsis Ferment Filtrate. That’s what SK-II thought Pitera was. As it turns out, Pitera actually belongs to the Galactomyces family, hence the new name on the newer bottles.

So, what does Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) do in skincare? Good question. There is some research that claims this yeast can improve skin’s barrier function (essential to keep moisture in) and help skin stay hydrated. One study also claims it has antioxidant and brightening properties that can prevent wrinkles and reduce dark spots.

The problem? Research on galactomyces is really scant, so we really need more proof before hailing it as a big skincare breakthrough. It looks promising, though, so using it wouldn’t certainly do any harm.

Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence uses two different types of yeast: Yeast Ferment Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate (it helps regulate the bacterial flora in your GI tract). Bifida Ferment Lysate is my fave of the two. Research shows it’s a multitasker that soothes inflammation, reduces redness, and increases “skin resistance against physical and chemical aggression“. That makes it a good option for sensitive skin that needs the extra TLC.

Related: What’s The Deal With Probiotics In Skincare – Do They Really Work?

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What Else Is In These Essences?

MISSHA TIME REVOLUTION THE FIRST ESSENCE 5X INGREDIENTS

• 1,2-Hexanediol: A multitasker used as a gentle preservative and moisture-binding humectant. Keeps formulas stable and skin soft.
• Niacinamide: The overachiever. Brightens skin, reduces redness, strengthens the barrier, regulates oil, and helps with fine lines. There’s solid research backing every one of those claims.
• Diethoxyethyl Succinate: A newer, gentler alternative to retinoids. Early studies suggest it may help with cell turnover and anti-aging without the typical irritation.
• Sodium PCA: Naturally found in your skin, this is a humectant that pulls in moisture like a sponge. Keeps your skin bouncy and hydrated.
• Water: Sounds basic, but it’s the base of most skincare products – helps dissolve other ingredients and keeps the formula lightweight and spreadable.
• Butylene Glycol: Another humectant that hydrates the skin and helps other ingredients absorb better. Also stops products from feeling sticky.
• Ethylhexylglycerin: A skin-conditioning agent with mild preservative properties. Keeps things fresh while giving your skin a silky feel.
• Adenosine: A soothing, anti-aging molecule that helps smooth out fine lines and boost skin repair. It’s naturally found in your body, so your skin knows how to use it.
• Ceramide NP: One of the essential lipids your skin barrier needs to stay healthy. Restores moisture, repairs damage, and protects against irritation.
• Hydrogenated Lecithin: Helps lock in moisture and deliver active ingredients deeper into the skin. Also supports barrier repair and makes textures feel smoother.

SK-II FACIAL TREATMENT ESSENCE

• Butylene Glycol: A humectant that draws moisture into the skin and helps other ingredients absorb better. It also gives products a smoother texture without making them greasy.
• Pentylene Glycol: Another hydrating multitasker. It moisturizes the skin and works as a mild preservative to keep the formula fresh and bacteria-free.
• Water: The universal solvent in skincare. It’s the base that helps dissolve other ingredients and makes the product easy to apply.
• Sodium Benzoate: A preservative that stops bacteria and fungi from growing in your skincare. Keeps your product safe and shelf-stable.
• Methylparaben: Another preservative, with a long safety track record. It’s effective at preventing mold and microbial growth, especially in water-based products.
• Sorbic Acid: A gentle preservative that targets mold and yeast. Often used in combo with other preservatives to give broad-spectrum protection.

Which Formula Is Better?

SK-II Facial Treatment Essence is pretty basic. They’re literally charging you $99.00 for some yeast… Yes, it soothes skin and… do you really want to pay that much just for that?

Misha Time Revolution First Time Essence is way cheaper and has one more ingredient that goes the extra mile: niacinamide. It’s a multi-tasker that does anything from hydrating your skin to soothing irritations and even brightening skin.

Awesome, right? Missha lists it in fourth place on the ingredient list, while SK-II doesn’t use it at all. This alone makes Missha the clear winner of the two.

Related: How Niacianamide Can Treat Any Skincare Woe

What’s The Texture Like?

Both of these feel like… fancy water. Seriously. They’re super thin, runny, and absorb like nothing. SK-II might feel slightly silkier going on, like it’s got a bit more body to it – but we’re splitting hairs here. You splash it on, it disappears in seconds, and you’re left wondering if you even applied anything (until your skin starts looking better, that is).

What’s The Fragrance Like?

SK-II smells… weird. Like, fermented rice weird. If you’ve never sniffed Pitera before, it might catch you off guard – kinda sour, kinda earthy, definitely not perfumey. But you get used to it.

Missha? Way more subtle. It still has that slight fermented scent if you stick your nose in it, but it’s way toned down compared to SK-II. Basically, if you’re sensitive to smells, Missha wins.

What’s The Packaging Like?

SK-II is all about that minimal, luxury vibe – heavy frosted glass bottle, silver cap, looks like it belongs in a spa or your “I just got promoted” shelfie.

Missha’s no slouch either. It’s also in glass, but the design feels a bit more trendy and less serious. Both look good on your vanity, but SK-II definitely leans more luxe, while Missha’s giving “cool girl who knows her K-beauty.”

How To Use Them

These are both first essences, which basically means they go on right after cleansing and before everything else (yes, even toner if you use one – they’re the real “first” step in your routine).
Just pour a few drops into your hand (don’t waste it on a cotton pad unless you love wasting product), press it into your skin, and give it a sec to sink in. That’s it. No 10-minute wait time, no fancy technique. Use it morning and night if you’re feeling extra, or once a day if you’re chill.

Bonus tip: They layer really well, so if your skin’s feeling thirsty, you can go in with a second layer. Or third. Go wild.

Which Of The Two Should You Go For?

Alright, here’s the honest breakdown:

• If you’re into luxury skincare, love that high-end experience, don’t mind a strong fermented scent, and you’ve got the budget to treat yourself, SK-II is the one. It’s a classic. People have been raving about it for years, and for some, it really delivers.
• But if you’re more like, “I want results without the luxury price tag,” Missha has your back. It’s got similar fermented goodness, feels great on the skin, and gives you that healthy-skin glow – for way less money.

Availability

SK-II Facial Treatment Essence ($99.00-$299.00, depending on size): Available at Sephora, SK-II, Stylevana, and Yes Style

Missha Time Revolution The First Essence 5X ($27.06): Available at Sokoglam, Stylevana, and Yes Style

Is Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence A Dupe For SK-II Facial Treatment Essence?

Nope. They contain different ingredients, so you couldn’t call them real dupes. But if you’re looking for an essence with probiotics, Missha Time Revolution The First Essence 5X is the winner.