The Retinol Serum I Can’t Live Without

Last Updated on October 14, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

So, you’ve been using retinol for a while, slowly building up tolerance like a skincare pro, and are now ready to go to the ultimate level: 1.5%. But how do you get there without turning your skin into a red and flaky mess? Because your skin may be used to retinol, but 1.5% is huge and can still bother it a bit…

Easy: look for skincare products with microencapsulated retinol, like Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum. In this review, we take a look at what makes it one of top retinol picks (I recommend this to my clients all the time), what to expect when you first add it to your skincare routine, who should use it, and so much more:

What’s In Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum?

MICROENCAPSULATED RETINOL

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. The only thing OTC that can really reduce those pesky wrinkles you have. Plus, it prevents new ones from forming and fades your dark spots away, too. How? Three ways:

1. It has antioxidant properties that destroy the free radicals that cause premature wrinkles and dark spots.
2. It accelerates cellular turnover (i.e. the skin’s natural exfoliating process), reducing the appearance of dark spots and wrinkles.
3. It boosts the production of collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm.

Retinol is a powerful weapon. And like all powerful weapons, it’s not without side effects:

• It can make skin more prone to sun damage (that’s why it’s PM).
• It degrades (i.e. loses a bit of its effectiveness) when exposed to light and air.
• It can cause dryness, flaking and irritations.

Microencapsulation fixes problems 2 and 3. It’s a technology used to put retinol into a tiny capsule or sphere. This does two things:

1. It keeps the retinol safe from light and air (that’s why the dropper bottle isn’t a problem this time).
2. It releases retinol into your skin over a period of several hours instead than all at once. In another words, it’s way gentler on the skin.

By the way, if you’ve never used retinol before, don’t go thinking that because this is microencapsulated, you can skip to 1.5% straight away. Build your tolerance like everyone else does. Your skin will thank you.

Related: The Complete Guide To Retinol

VITAMIN C TO BRIGHTEN SKIN

Why, what? Don’t vitamin C and retinol make each other useless? Here’s the deal: retinol works best at a pH of 5.5. Ascorbic acid (the pure form of vitamin C) needs a pH of 3.5. You see the problem? It’s not a problem here. Here’s why. One: Retinol is protected by microencapsulation, so it doesn’t touch Vitamin C.

Two: The serum uses a derivative of L-Ascorbic Acid. Ascorbyl Palmitate, to be exact. It’s less effective than the real deal, but you’ll still get some brightening effects. FYI, Vitamin C is listed after retinol in the ingredient list so it’s unlikely there’s enough of it to boost collagen anyway. Here, it’s used mainly for its brightening and antioxidant properties.

Related: Mix And Match: The Skincare Ingredients You Should Never Use Together

SQUALANE TO MOISTURISE SKIN

This is derived from squalene, a natural component of sebum (your skin’s natural moisturizer). Squalane is super moisturizing. It’s loaded with fatty acids that strengthen your skin’s protective barrier and keep your skin soft and smooth. Plus, it has antioxidant properties that neutralise free radicals before they can wreak their damage on your skin. The best part? Because it’s so similar to sebum, your skin recognizes it and absorbs it straight away. It leaves no greasy residue behind.

Related: The Complete Guide To Squalane In Skincare

Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):

Texture

It’s kinda oily and super runny – like, it just flows right out of the dropper. Which is good for spreading it around your face without yanking at your skin, but heads up: this stuff does NOT absorb fast. You’re gonna be sitting there for a couple minutes waiting for it to sink in. It just hangs out on your face for a bit before it finally disappears. I usually put it on and then go do literally anything else – scroll TikTok, brush my teeth, whatever – because otherwise I’m just staring at myself in the mirror waiting. It’s not gross or anything, just slow.

Fragrance

No fragrance at all, thank god. Like, literally nothing added – no fake floral nonsense, no “calming lavender,” none of that. There’s maybe a teeny tiny hint of that retinol smell if you really sniff it, but honestly it’s barely noticeable and goes away fast. Your pillowcase isn’t gonna smell like anything, which is a win if you ask me.

How To Use It

Use it every other night after washing your face. Pretty straightforward – just make sure your face is actually dry first. A few drops covers your whole face, maybe your neck too if you’re feeling fancy. But here’s the deal: don’t use it the same night you’re using exfoliating stuff. Like, really don’t. Retinol plus acids or scrubs is just asking for your face to freak out. So do retinol one night, skip it the next (or do your exfoliating thing instead), then back to retinol. Give your skin a break between, trust me.

Packaging

Use it every other night after washing your face. Pretty straightforward – just make sure your face is actually dry first. A few drops covers your whole face, maybe your neck too if you’re feeling fancy. But here’s the deal: don’t use it the same night you’re using exfoliating stuff. Like, really don’t. Retinol plus acids or scrubs is just asking for your face to freak out. So do retinol one night, skip it the next (or do your exfoliating thing instead), then back to retinol. Give your skin a break between, trust me.

Performance & Personal Opinion

Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum has an oily base that makes it more suitable for dry skin. But, squalane ISN’T comedogenic, so oily skin can use it too. Although it takes months for retinol to make a dent in your wrinkles, you will notice an improvement in your skin within a few short days.

The serum makes my skin’s texture smoother. It shrink the large pores around my nose area, so they look almost invisible to the naked eye. It makes my complexion glow. Overtime, it also helps to keep my skin firm and reduce wrinkles. But, remember, we’re playing the long game here.

I don’t have any dark spots but if you do, this can help with that too. I mean it when I say that Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM is one of the best retinol serums I’ve ever tried. I almost cried when I accidentally poured half its contents in the sink. 😥

What I Like About Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum

• Makes my skin noticeably smoother within just a few days – you don’t have to wait forever to see some results
• Seriously shrinks the look of my pores, especially around my nose where they’re usually the worst
• Gives my skin this nice glow that makes me look more awake
• Works for both dry and oily skin since squalane isn’t comedogenic
• Actually delivers on the wrinkle-fighting promises if you stick with it long term
• Fragrance-free so it doesn’t irritate my skin or stink up my pillowcase
• The dropper makes it easy to control how much you’re using

What I DON’T Like About Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum

• Takes a couple minutes to absorb, so you can’t just slap it on and immediately go to bed
• The runny texture means it’s super easy to accidentally spill (RIP half my bottle down the sink)
• Kinda pricey, so wasting any feels especially tragic
• You still have to wait months to see the real anti-aging benefits – instant gratification this is not

Who Should Use This?

Honestly? If you’ve got dry skin, this is gonna be your jam because of that oily base. But don’t let that scare you off if you’re oily – squalane won’t clog your pores, so you’re good. This is for anyone who’s starting to see fine lines, wrinkles, or just wants to keep their skin looking firm and young.

Got big pores or rough texture? Yeah, this’ll help. Dull skin that needs some glow? Yep. Dark spots bugging you? It works for that too. Basically, if you’re ready to actually commit to using retinol and want something that delivers results without destroying your face, grab this. Just don’t expect it to sink in super fast – if you need to be asleep in 30 seconds, maybe skip it for tonight.

Does Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM Night Serum Live Up To Its Claims?

Price & Availability

$65.00/£62.50 at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Face The Future, Look Fantastic, Peter Thomas Roth,  Sephora, and Ulta

Do You Need It?

If you’ve reached retinol plateau and are ready to up your dose, this is a serious contender for your money.