Have you heard? Cold Plasma is having a makeover.
Gone is the scent (finally!). In is a sleeker packaging that makes even this jar hating girl want to jump on the jar bandwagon (how pretty is it?!).
But it’s the juice inside that matters. Should Perricone MD have left its cult products alone or are the new Cold Plasma+ Face Advanced Serum Concentrate and Cold Plasma+ Eyes worth the splurge?
I’ve put them both to the test. Here are my thoughts on both:
Perricone MD Cold Plasma+ Face Advanced Serum Concentrate
TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE TO FIGHT PREMATURE AGING
I know what you’re thinking. Vitamin C in a jar?! Next!
Once upon a time, I’d have done the same. Heck, I’d still do the same if we were talking about L-Ascorbic Acid (the pure form of Vitamin C). That’s super unstable and goes bad SO quickly.
But, Perricone is using Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, a STABLE form. Stable means it doesn’t oxidise so quickly when exposed to light and air. Of course, overtime it’ll still lose some of its effectiveness. All antioxidants do. I’m just saying it does this way more slowly than L-Ascorbic Acid, so the jar packaging isn’t a dealbreaker here.
The other strength of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate? It’s fat soluble, so it penetrates the lipid layer of the skin more easily than other forms of Vitamin C. This makes it more effective than other forms of Vitamin C at boosting collagen.
Studies show that using it every single day for 12 weeks stimulates collagen and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Plus, it brightens skin, too.
BUT, I do wish Perricone had put a higher concentration of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate here. Just saying.
Related: Types Of Vitamin C In Skincare
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PEPTIDES TO BOOST COLLAGEN
Peptides are controversial. They’re too big to penetrate skin, yet studies say they work. Sure, most of these studies are done by the manufacturers, but even the few independent studies seem to back their claims.
The most popular theory has it that, when left on the surface of the skin, peptides signal to skin cells to pump out more collagen, increase hydration levels, etc… They tell cells to do a better job, basically.
Still, not all peptides are created equal. Here’s what Perricone uses in Cold Plasma + Face:
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: Nicknamed “Botox in a jar,” it relaxes muscles so they can’t move. No movement = no wrinkles. I haven’t seen any independent studies confirming this yet. Still, it helps hydrate skin.
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: A peptide that boosts collagen production.
- Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3: A peptide that reduces inflammation, one of the main causes of premature aging.
- Copper Tripeptide-1: A multitasker that boosts collagen and elastin and soothes irritations.
I wouldn’t buy a cream just for peptides, but when they’re part of a good formula, they’re always welcome. 🙂
Related: Types Of Peptides: Which One Works Best?
SODIUM HYALURONATE TO HYDRATE SKIN
Sodium hyaluronate is a moisture magnet. This form of hyaluronic acid attracts water from the environment and drops it into your skin.
It does this so well, it can bind up to 1000 times its weight in water. Can you image how much moisture that is?
All that moisture makes your skin very happy. It plumps it up, so that wrinkles look smaller. It smoothes out its texture and makes it soft to the touch. It makes it glow as if lit-from-within.
Related: Why You Should Add Hyaluronic Acid To Your Skincare Routine
ISOPROPYL PALMITATE TO MOISTURISE SKIN
I need to say a few words about Isopropyl Palmitate, a little known ingredient that makes your skin soft and smooth.
If you’ve been around for a while, you know I’ve always avoided it like the plague. It’s not toxic or anything. But, it’s comedogenic.
Back when my skin was on the oilier side, using a cream with a high concentration of Isopropyl Palmitate like Perricone MD Cold Plasma+ Face woUld have invited pimples to party on my face.
But, since I’ve moved to London two years ago, my skin has changed. I still get a little shine and a few blackheads on my nose and chin, but the rest of the face has gotten drier.
So, I took the plunge. Will it work for me now? Well, it did give me one pimple. On my chin. That’s an improvement. Once upon a time, I’d have had an invasion of pimples.
Still, if your skin is oily, proceed with caution.
Related: Is Isopropyl Myristate Comedogenic?
Let’s Put It To The Test: Personal Use & Opinion
I have to say Perricone makes it difficult not to like jars. Isn’t this one chic?
But it’s what inside that matters. Perricone MD Cold Plasma+ Face Advanced Serum Concentrate is a light grey in colour. It looks like liquid concrete and doesn’t smell too great either.
But that’s a good thing. Perricone didn’t add any fragrance to the serum. What you smell is the ingredients. It may not be pleasant, but at least it ain’t irritating. Bonus points for that.
The texture itself is very lightweight and sinks into the skin without leaving a greasy residue behind. It does a great job at hydrating my skin and making it softer. All the hydration also temporarily reduces the look of my fine lines.
But does it get rid of wrinkles, too? It does contain its fair share of collagen boosters but you have to be realistic here. I know that for £129 you’d want a miracle worker that gets rid of your wrinkles overnight, but even Vitamin C and peptides work slowly.
They can help you age better for sure and they’ll improve the look of your wrinkles, but they can’t turn the clock back 20 years. It’s up to you to decide if that’s worth the splurge.
Related: Treatment VS Prevention: What Really Works Against Wrinkles
Perricone MD Cold Plasma+ Eyes
Perricone MD Cold Plasma+ Eyes is very similar to Cold Plasma+ Face. It has all the same ingredients I’ve mentioned above, so I won’t repeat it all over again.
I’d venture to say most of you can get away with using the Face version all over your face. Unless your undereye area is way drier than the rest of your face.
The main difference between the Eye and Face version is their moisturising power. The Eye cream is packed with natural oils, such as jojoba and olive, that pack the moisturising punch. They seal in moisture and make skin soft and smooth.
The texture is creamier than the Face version, but still lightweight. It moisturises my undereye area without suffocating it or causing milia.
Apart from that, I’ve found it works pretty much the same as the Face version. There’s nothing here that’ll tackle your dark circles or puffiness. But, in the long run, it boosts collagen and helps keep crows’ feet at bay.
Price & Availability
Cold Plasma+ Face, £129.00/$149.00; Cold Plasma+ Eyes, £80.00/$110.00 at Feel Unique and Ulta
Cold Plasma+ Face Advanced Serum Concentrate Ingredients
Water, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Phosphatidylcholine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethyl MEA, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Tyrosine, Glycolic Acid, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Rosmarinus Officials (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Copper Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol Palmitate, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Ceteareth-20, Cyclopentasiloxane, Carpylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasilocane, Polysorbate 20, Sea Mays (Corn) Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid
Cold Plasma+ Eyes Ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Ceteareth-20, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Benzyl Alcohol, Phosphatidylcholine, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Copper Tripeptide-1, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Copper Gluconate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chrysin, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steareth-20, Silica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491).