Last Updated on December 30, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

Have you heard of Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14? It’s probably the less known member of the peptide family. While we’re all fawning over Matrixyl or Argireline (a.k.a. Botox in a jar), Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 has sneaked it away into a few serums and moisturizers without anyone noticing. There’s a reason for that…. Let’s look at what the science says about Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, what it does for your skin, and whether it deserves a place in your skincare routine:
- What Is Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14?
- Do Peptides In Skincare Work?
- What Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Do For Your Skin?
- Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Work Better Than Tretinoin?
- Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Have Any Side Effects?
- Who Should Use Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 (And Who Shouldn’t Bother)
- What Are The Best Skincare Products With Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14?
- The Bottom Line
What Is Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14?
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is a relatively new – and still very unknown – peptide developed by Helix BioMedix Inc. The company has made and patented 50+ peptides! Like all its siblings, this peptide is made up of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins). It has the same chemical structure as proteins but shorter in length. Before I tell you more about it, let’s take a look at what peptides can do for your skin (and why Helix BioMedix has made so many!).
Do Peptides In Skincare Work?
Peptides are the anomaly in the skincare matrix. As a rule, anything that’s too big than 500 Daltons can’t penetrate skin. If it can’t penetrate, it can’t work. Got it? Peptides are bigger than that, yet they do work. Studies show they can boost collagen, hydrate skin, and improve its texture. How is that possible?!
One theory is that peptides are cell-communicating ingredients that work through signalling. In plain English, when you apply peptides on your skin, these little molecules send signals to your skin cells to produce more collagen, hyaluronic acid and whatever else they need (every peptide has a slightly different job). These cells do their job and voilá, your skin improves.
Related: The Truth About Peptides In Skincare
What Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Do For Your Skin?
Now you know a bit more about peptides, let’s take a look at what Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 does for skin. Studies show it has three main jobs:
- It stimulates the production of collagen, the protein that keeps your skin firm.
- It boosts the proliferation of fibroblasts, the cells that make collagen (you can’t make collagen without them!).
- It inhibits MMPs, a group of enzymes that destroys your natural collagen and does other bad things to your skin.
In other words, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 helps your skin retain its natural collagen and pump out some more. The more collagen your skin has, the younger it looks. Your fine lines and wrinkles look smaller and the whole complexion is more hydrated. Who does’t want that?
Related: 8 Science-Backed Ways To Rebuild Lost Collagen
Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Work Better Than Tretinoin?
Tretinoin is, so far, the only thing that’s proven to reduce wrinkles. That’s right. It doesn’t make wrinkles look smaller. It makes them smaller. The catch? It’s so harsh and drying on the skin, it’s available by prescription only in most countries.
The manufacturer claims Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 can do the same thing without irritation. In a 12-weeks in-vivo (on real people) study, they compared the peptide to Renova (0.05% tretinoin). The results? Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as Renova – but without irritating skin. Should you make the switch?
Not so fast… For starters, the study was done by the manufacturer, so take it with a pinch of salt. Plus, I couldn’t find any details whatsoever of the study (that’s why I can’t link to it.) If Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is really a gentler alternative to prescription retinoids, why isn’t Helix Biomedix Inc. shouting it from the rooftops? Mmm…
P.S. I do believe this is a promising antiaging peptide. But don’t throw your retinoids away just yet!
Related: Are Copper Peptides Better Than Retinoids?
Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Have Any Side Effects?
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is gentle and non-irritating. Unless you’re allergic to it, it won’t do your skin any harm.
Who Should Use Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 (And Who Shouldn’t Bother)
This peptide might work for you if you’re allergic to retinoids or your skin is so sensitive even the gentlest retinol makes it angry. It won’t irritate, so if retinoids are genuinely off the table, here’s your collagen-boosting option. But I don’t recommend it.
The research is too thin. One manufacturer study with zero details? Not convincing. If this really worked like tretinoin without irritation, dermatologists would be all over it. They’re not. Spend your money on proven stuff instead: retinoids (try gentler versions like retinaldehyde if irritation scares you), vitamin C, niacinamide. Decades of research, better results, usually cheaper.
What Are The Best Skincare Products With Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14?
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 isn’t so popular every brand wants to use it – yet. But you can find it in:
- Revision Skincare® D.E.J Night Face Cream ($185.00): An anti-aging with cream with retinoids and antioxidants to prevent and treat wrinkles. Available at Dermstore.
- RODAN + FIELDSÂ Redefine Intensive Renewing Serum With Retinal ($99.00): A silicone-based serum with retinoids and peptides to fight wrinkles. Available at Rodan + Fields and Ulta.
The Bottom Line
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is a promising ingredient to watch. Initial research shows it helps boosts collagen and firm skin. But there’s no proof it works better than retinoids yet!
the dermalogica ones contains cell killing citrus oils