Is Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 A Gentler Alternative To Prescription Retinoids?

by Gio
palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 in skincare

Have you heard of Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14?

It’s probably the less known member of the peptide family. While we’re all fawning over Matrixyl or Argireline, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 has sneaked it away into a few serums and moisturizers without anyone noticing.

 There’s a reason for that….

What Is Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14?

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is a relatively new – and still very unknown – peptide developed by Helix BioMedix Inc. The company has made and patented 50+ peptides!

Like all its siblings, this peptide is made up of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins). It has the same chemical structure as proteins but shorter in length.

Before I tell you more about it, let’s take a look at what peptides can do for your skin (and why Helix BioMedix has made so many!).

Do Peptides In Skincare Work?

Peptides are the anomaly in the skincare matrix.

As a rule, anything that’s too big than 500 Daltons can’t penetrate skin. If it can’t penetrate, it can’t work. Got it?

Peptides are bigger than that, yet they do work. Studies show they can boost collagen, hydrate skin, and improve its texture. How is that possible?!

One theory is that peptides are cell-communicating ingredients that work through signalling.

In plain English, when you apply peptides on your skin, these little molecules send signals to your skin cells to produce more collagen, hyaluronic acid and whatever else they need (every peptide has a slightly different job).

These cells do their job and voilá, your skin improves.

Related: The Truth About Peptides In Skincare

What Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Do For Your Skin?

Now you know a bit more about peptides, let’s take a look at what Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 does for skin. Studies show it has three main jobs:

  • It stimulates the production of collagen, the protein that keeps your skin firm.
  • It boosts the proliferation of fibroblasts, the cells that make collagen (you can’t make collagen without them!).
  • It inhibits MMPs, a group of enzymes that destroys your natural collagen and does other bad things to your skin.

In other words, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 helps your skin retain its natural collagen and pump out some more.

The more collagen your skin has, the younger it looks. Your fine lines and wrinkles look smaller and the whole complexion is more hydrated.

Who does’t want that?

Related: 8 Science-Backed Ways To Rebuild Lost Collagen

Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Work Better Than Tretinoin?

Tretinoin is, so far, the only thing that’s proven to reduce wrinkles. That’s right. It doesn’t make wrinkles look smaller. It makes them smaller.

The catch? It’s so harsh and drying on the skin, it’s available by prescription only in most countries.

The manufacturer claims Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 can do the same thing without irritation. In a 12-weeks in-vivo (on real people) study, they compared the peptide to Renova (0.05% tretinoin).

The results? Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as Renova – but without irritating skin.

Should you make the switch?

Not so fast… For starters, the study was done by the manufacturer, so take it with a pinch of salt. Plus, I couldn’t find any details whatsoever of the study (that’s why I can’t link to it.)

If Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is really a gentler alternative to prescription retinoids, why isn’t Helix Biomedix Inc. shouting it from the rooftops? Mmm…

P.S. I do believe this is a promising antiaging peptide. But don’t throw your retinoids away just yet!

Related: Are Copper Peptides Better Than Retinoids?

Does Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 Have Any Side Effects?

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is gentle and non-irritating. Unless you’re allergic to it, it won’t do your skin any harm.

What Are The Best Skincare Products With Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14?

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 isn’t so popular every brand wants to use it – yet. But you can find it in:

The Bottom Line

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is a promising ingredient to watch. Initial research shows it helps boosts collagen and firm skin. But there’s no proof it works better than retinoids yet!

Have you tried Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

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1 comment

Jeff December 16, 2019 - 2:53 pm

the dermalogica ones contains cell killing citrus oils

Reply

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