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Last Updated on June 11, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

hot water opens pores skincare myth

Are you washing your face with hot water to open your pores and finishing off with a splash of cold water to close them up again? Don’t bother. It’s a waste of time. We’ve already talked about how the whole closing pores with cold water thing doesn’t work. If that doesn’t work, why would hot water?

But hey, I get it. There’s something super satisfying about a steaming-hot wash, especially after a long day or a tough workout. That blast of heat feels like it’s working, right? Like you’re melting away all the grime, stress, and gunk. Spoiler alert: it’s not opening anything – except maybe the floodgates for dry skin. Let’s put the “hot water opens pores” myth to rest once and for all, shall we?

Why Hot Water Can’t Open Pores

Pores are basically the openings of hair follicles that let oil and sweat out. They’re more like teeny-tiny tunnels than doors – and trust me, there’s no bouncer at the entrance taking your skincare bribes. So, skip the door drama.

You know what this means? NOTHING can open pores. Not even hot water. Pores aren’t doors. You can’t open and close them at will. But, where does this myth come from? Every myth has a grain of truth in it, after all…

If you’ve ever tried to treat sore muscles, you’ll know that heat can relax them. Cold, on the other hand, makes them contract. If pores had muscles, it’d make sense that cold water would relax (open) them while cold water would contract (close) them. But they don’t have muscles, so this theory does NOT apply to them.

Related: Can Hot Water Close Pores?

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What Does Hot Water Really Do For Your Skin?

Hot water can’t open pores, but it helps unclog them. It works like this: excess sebum, comedogenic skincare ingredients, dead skin cells, and other crap accumulates inside your pores, forming clogs that make them swell and look larger than their natural size. Heat helps melt away all the oils and fats stuck in your pores, so they can freely flow out of them. The more crap you melt away, the quicker your pores go back to their original size.

FYI, you don’t need to use hot water for this. A BHA exfoliant does the job without hurting your skin (more on this below). Hot water may seem innocuous, but it has side effects…

Related: 3 Science-Based Ways To Shrink Pores

Are There Any Side Effects When You Wash Your Face With Hot Water?

You’re not going to like this. I love showering with HOT (read: “so-boiling-hot-you-can-cook-an-egg-in-there”) water. I’d love nothing better for it to open my pores, so my serums and moisturizers could penetrate deeper and work better.

Truth is, I’m just drying out my skin and making it wither like an old prune. Hot water is terribly drying to the skin. It disrupts the skin’s protective barrier, leaving it dry, tight, and flaky. Oh, and more prone to irritations, too!

Oh, and if you’re dealing with redness, rosacea, or sensitive skin? Hot water is basically your skin’s worst enemy. That extra heat can cause more flushing and inflammation, making everything look worse.

Related: The Best Skincare Routine For Dry Skin

What’s The Best Way To Unclog Pores?

Salicylic acid. This oil-soluble exfoliant penetrates deep inside your pores, removing all the crap that’s clogging them up. While it’s at it, it also exfoliates the surface of your skin, preventing new dead cells from falling into your pores in the first place.

For best results, use it every other night. Daily exfoliation is a no-no. Unless you have oily, resistant skin, it can lead to dryness and irritation.

Best picks:

  • Paula’s Choice Clear Regular Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution With 2% Salicylic Acid ($34.00): This exfoliant unclogs pores, treats acne (including blackheads), and soothes redness. Its lightweight texture sinks into skin quickly without leaving a tacky residue behind. Available at Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Selfridges, and SpaceNK.
  • The Inkey List BHA Serum (£11.04): A simple BHA exfoliant with hydrating Hyaluronic Acid to treat acne without drying out skin. Available at Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, and The Inkey List.
  • The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution: A simple, no-frills Salicylic Acid exfoliant to treat acne and remove blackheads. The texture isn’t the most pleasant to use, but it works. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Selfridges, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary and Ulta.

Related: Why Salicylic Acid Is Key To Spot-Free Skin

The Bottom Line

Hot water can’t open pores. But it can dry out the skin. Be careful with it! If you want truly clean, happy skin, skip the steaming-hot water and focus on gentle cleansing and regular exfoliation instead. Save the scalding showers for your back and shoulders (or skip them altogether). And if you’re serious about skincare, remember: pores are stubborn, but consistent care (like using a good BHA exfoliant and a gentle cleanser) will keep them in check better than any old wives’ tale about hot water ever could.