Active Ingredients in Sunscreen Products

Last Updated on March 3, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

Do you know what are the active ingredients in sunscreens, especially YOUR sunscreen?

You’d better. Cos not all sunscreens give you adequate sun protection. Some are lazy and only keep you safe from UVB rays. They can get away with this because SPF only refers to the level of protection from UVB rays. Crazy, I know!

But here’s something even crazier: UVA rays are just as bad, if not worse, than UVB rays. While UVB rays cause sunburn, UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin, causing premature aging, wrinkles, and even contributing to skin cancer. Worst part? They penetrate through windows, so you’re not safe indoors or on cloudy days.

If you can’t read those undecipherable labels, how can you tell if your sunscreen is doing its duty or slacking on the job?

Before you panic at the thought of going anywhere near those labels, worry not. I’ve put together this short guide with the most common active ingredients (the UV filters) found in sunscreens and the kind of protection they give you.

Before you pick up your next bottle of sunscreen, make sure it has at least one UVA filter in it:

Avobenzone

Usually listed as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane on the label (just to make your life more complicated), it protects against the entire UVA range. That’s why it’s the most common UVA filter used in the USA.

Problem is, it degrades (stops working) quickly when exposed to light, so use it with ingredients that can help it last longer, such as Octocrylene, Mexoryl, or Tinosorb. If a sunscreen contains Avobenzone without stabilizers, its effectiveness can drop by 50% in just an hour!

Want proof? According to a study published in Photochemistry and Photobiology, Avobenzone is a powerful UVA absorber but must be stabilized for lasting protection.

PROS:

• It’s one of the few chemical filters that provide full UVA protection.
• Works well with other UV filters to create broad-spectrum sunscreens.
• Lightweight and doesn’t feel greasy.

CONS:

• It breaks down fast in sunlight.
• Some people with sensitive skin find it irritating.

Related: Is Avobenzone Dangerous?

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Benzophenones

A group of sunscreen ingredients that include Oxybenzone, Methanone, Benzophenone-3 and anything else that ends in “benzone” or “benzophenone”. They protect from all UVB and some UVA rays but can irritate sensitive skin.

Oxybenzone is causing controversy because it’s been found in bloodstream samples after application. Some studies suggest it could disrupt hormones, though the jury’s out there on whether it affects humans in real-world conditions.

PROS:

• They boost the effectiveness of other UV filters.
• They offer partial UVA protection (it’s better than nothing, but still…)

CONS:

• Oxybenzone is controversial because it has been detected in blood samples after sunscreen application.
• Some studies suggest it may disrupt hormones, though we don’t know if this happens in the small concentrations used in sunscreens.

Related: Is Oxybenzone The Worst UV Filter Ever?

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Cinoxate

A sunscreen agent that offers full UVB and little UVA protection. Cinoxate is an effective UVB filter, so it does a good job at preventing sunburns. But since it barely provides any UVA protection, it must be paired with a stronger UVA filter to offer full coverage. That’s why you don’t see it that often in sunscreens.

PROS:

• It absorbs UVB rays.
• Works well with other filters to enhance SPF.

CONS:

• Provides very little UVA protection, so it must be paired with others UVA filters like Avobenzone or Zinc Oxide.

Ensulizole

A.k,a. Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, it provides full UVB and minimal UVA protection. It’s water-soluble and feels very light on the skin.

Because it’s water-soluble, you’ll often find Ensulizole in gel sunscreens and lightweight formulations that don’t feel greasy. It’s great for oily and acne-prone skin, but it doesn’t provide strong UVA protection, so it needs back-up from other ingredients like Avobenzone or Tinosorb.

PROS:

• Great for oily and acne-prone skin.
•  Non-greasy.
• Works well in gel sunscreens.

CONS:

• Weak UVA protection, so it must be used with stronger UVA filters.

Related: Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Ensulizole In Sunscreens

Homosalate

It provides full UVB  and minimal UVA protection. It can be used only in concentrations up to 10%.

Homosalate is very common in U.S. sunscreens because it boosts SPF. Unfortunately, its UVA protection is weak, so it’s never used alone. There are some concerns about it disrupting hormones, but studies are inconclusive.

PROS:

• Helps boost SPF in sunscreens.
• Good for water-resistant sunscreens.

CONS:

• Weak UVA protection.
• Concerns about hormone disruption (but research is inconclusive at this moment).

Menthyl Anthranilate

I bet you’ve never heard of this one! It’s also called. Meradimate and it protects from some, but not all UVA rays. It’s rarely used in the USA and banned in Europe and Japan. Why? Research suggests it might not be photostable, meaning it could break down too quickly in sunlight to be fully effective.

PROS:

• Protects from UVA rays.

CONS:

• Doesn’t provide adequate sun protection.

Mexoryl SX

A.k.a. Ecamsule and terephthalylidine dicamphor sulfonic acid (that’s usually how it disguises itself on the label), it’s developed and patented by L’Oreal. It protects against UVA rays and degrades more slowly when exposed to sunlight than other ingredients like Avobenzone.

Mexoryl SX is one of the most photostable UVA filters available, making it an excellent option for long-lasting protection.

Research in Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine found that Mexoryl SX is one of the most effective UVA filters in sunscreens. 

PROS:

• It provides excellent UVA protection.
• Photostable, doesn’t break down as quickly in the sun.
• Works particularly well in combination with Mexoryl XL (UVB filter).

Downsides:

• Only found in L’Oréal-owned brands (like La Roche-Posay and Vichy).
• Not FDA-approved in the U.S.

Related: What Are The Best Sunscreens With Mexoryl?

Mexoryl XL

A.k.a. Drometrizole Trisiloxane, it’s developed and patented by L’Oreal too. It protects against UVB rays. It’s oil soluble, so it’s perfect for water-resistant sunscreens designed for outdoor activities, like sports and swimming.

PROS:

• It provides strong UVB protection.
• Photostable (doesn’t degrade quickly under sun exposure).
• Water-resistant, so it’s perfect for swimming, sports, and humid climates.
• Often used with Mexoryl SX for broad-spectrum protection.

CONS:

• Not approved for use in the USA.
• Only L’Oréal brands use it.

Octinoxate

A.k.a. Octyl Methoxycinnamate, it protects from UVB rays. It’s also soluble so great for outdoor activities. Some studies show it can generate free radicals so don’t forget to pile up your antioxidant serum beforehand.

Some research suggests that Octinoxate can penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream, though we don’t know if this causes any health issues in humans yet.

PROS:

• Protects from UVB rays.
• Photostable.
• Blends easily into lightweight sunscreens.

CONS:

• Weak UVA protection, so it must be paired with a UVA filter (like Avobenzone, Tinosorb, or Zinc Oxide).
• Some research suggests it penetrates the skin and may be detected in blood and urine samples (we just don’t know if this is dangerous for humans yet).

Related: Is Octinoxate In Sunscreens Safe?

Octisalate

A.k.a. octyl salicylate and ethylhexyl salicylate, it protects only from UVB rays. A study published in Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology found it needs to be used with stronger filters for effective protection.

PROS:

• It improves the spreadability of sunscreen.
• Works as a stabilizer, helping other UV filters last longer.
• Often found in water-resistant sunscreens because it helps keep the formula intact in sweaty or humid conditions.

CONS

• Weak UVB protection (it’s never used alone).
• It can irritate sensitive skin.

Related: The Complete Guide To Octisalate In Sunscreen

Octocrylene

A weak UVB filter. It helps to stabilize Avobenzone but can cause irritations. A Journal of Investigative Dermatology study found that Octocrylene can accumulate in the skin, but we need way more research before we can conclude it’s bad for our health.

PROS:

• Prevents Avobenzone from breaking down, making it more effective for longer.
• Water-esistance, so it’s ideal for sports and beach sunscreens.
• Makes the texture of sunscreens less greasy.

CONS:

• Some studies suggest it can penetrate the skin (we just don’t know if this makes it dangerous yet).
• Can cause skin irritation, especially in people with eczema or rosacea.
• It’s been detected in coral reefs, so it may harm them.

Related: The Complete Guide To Octocrylene In Sunscreen

Tinosorb

Tinosorb S (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) and Tinosorb M (methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) offer protection from all UVA and some UVB rays. Tinosorb S is water soluble while Tinosorb M is oil soluble. Both are photostable and can help other UV filters, such as Avobenzone, last longer, too.

A study in Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine found that Tinosorb S and M are among the most effective and stable UVA filters, making them ideal for daily sunscreen use.

PROS:

• It protects against all UVA and some UVB rays.
• Extremely photostable (does not degrade in sunlight).
• Boosts the stability of other UV filters (especially Avobenzone).
• Doesn’t irritate sensitive skin.

CONS

• Not approved by the FDA.

Related: What Are The Best Sunscreen Ingredients?

Titanium Dioxide

A white mineral that protects against the entire UVB range but only half of the UVA range. It doesn’t irritate skin but can leave a white cast.

PROS;

• Protects from UVB and most UVA rays.
• Gentle and non-irritating. 
• Stable in sunlight.

CONS:

• Limited UVA protection, so it’s not enough on its own.
• Can leave a white cast, especially on darker skin tones.

Related: More Than A Sunscreen: The Complete Guide To Titanium Dioxide In Skincare

Trolamine Salicylate

Another UVB filter you probably have never heard of.

PROS:

• It helps absorb UVB rays.

CONS:

• Not commonly used anymore because there are more effective UVB filters available.

Zinc Oxide

A white mineral that protects from the entire UV range (finally!). It’s very gentle and non-irritating, but leaves a white cast on the skin.

PROS:

• One of the best broad-spectrum filters, it protects against all UVA and UVB rays.
• Photostable (doesn’t degrade when exposed to sunlight).
• Great for sensitive skin. It’s non-irritating.
• Safe for babies and pregnant women because it’s not absorbed into the skin.

CONS:

• Can leave a white cast.
• Greasy texture.

Related: Is Zinc Oxide The Best UV Filter Ever?

The Bottom Line

In case you’re wondering, all my fave sunscreens use zinc oxide. It provides broad spectrum protection without irritating my skin, saving me the headache of having to decipher the whole ingredient list. You can find my fave zinc oxide sunscreens here.

Now that you know exactly what to look for in a sunscreen, make sure you check the ingredients list before buying. Don’t just rely on SPF – make sure there’s real UVA protection too!