Last Updated on October 4, 2026 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

“How often should you exfoliate with AHAs/BHA? The instructions on my glycolic acid exfoliant say I need to apply it every night. But then why is my skin so dry all of a sudden?” I hear this a lot from my readers. Exfoliating acids are double-edged swords. Use them right and they’ll brighten up your skin, smooth out your wrinkles and unclog your pores. Overdo them, and they’ll punish you with dryness and irritation. How do you get the balance right? It all comes down to your skin type and what type of acid you’re using:

What Are AHAs/BHA?

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) are two families of chemical exfoliants. They work by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. These dead cells are old. They’ve been battered by UV rays, pollution, freezing winds… They’ve become rough and lost their glow. When you get them off your skin’s surface, your whole complexion is softer and brighter.

Not all acids are created equal. Each of them has its own unique benefit. No matter what skin type or skin concerns you have, there’s an exfoliating acid out there that can deal with it. Here’s a quick guide to choosing the right exfoliants to you:

• Glycolic acid: The smallest member of the AHAs family, it hydrates skin, fades away dark spots and (at 10% or higher concentrations) boosts collagen production. It’s the ideal choice for dry skin, dull skin, and visible signs of sun damage – as long as it’s not sensitive. It’s the most irritating of the lot. It’s the most irritating of the lot.
• Lactic acid: The least irritating member of the AHAs family, it exfoliates and hydrates sensitive skin at the same time.
• Mandelic acid: The new kid on the block, this AHA is a large mocule that easily penetrates the skin’s lipid layer and gets into the pores. It helps unclog them, but it works more slowly than salicylic acid. I only recommend it to oily, acne-prone skin with sensitivity to salicylic acid.
• Salicylic acid: The only member of the BHA family used in skincare, it’s oil-soluble and can get inside the pores to unclog them from within. Bye bye, blackheads and pimples! Plus, it has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness and irritation. It’s my top choice for oily and acne-prone skin.

Related: AHAs VS BHA: Which One Is Right For You?

How Often Can You Exfoliate With AHAs/BHA?

It depends on your skin type and what acid you’re using:

• Glycolic acid: On dry, sun-damaged skin, you can use it every other night.
• Lactic acid: Use it once or twice a week at night on sensitive skin. Other skin types can use it more often.
• Mandelic acid: On oily skin,  it’s safe to use every other night.
• Salicylic acid: You can use it every other day, either morning or night, on oily, acne-prone skin. If you’re having a bad breakout and your skin is resistant enough to tolerate it, you may use it daily.

It goes without saying (but I’ll say it anyway) that these are just guidelines. If your skin starts experiencing any unwanted signs of exfoliation – flaky patches, dryness, skin peeling, redness, irritation – cut back usage.

Related: How To Choose The Best Exfoliant For Your Skin Type

Exception #1: Exfoliating Cleansers

Some cleansers contain acids to remove makeup, impurities and dead cells all in one go. In this case, the acid won’t stay on your skin for long. When you rinse off your cleanser, the exfoliating acids go down the drain with it. You know what this means? They don’t have the time to do much exfoliation. Hence why I recommend you use a leave-on product instead.

I personally recommend exfoliating cleansers only to women with sensitive skin that can’t tolerate acids on skin for long. Even then, I’d use them only on alternate days. While, for most people, these exfoliating cleansers MAY be safe for daily use (unless you have dry or sensitive skin), the benefits are so little, they’re really not worth using.

Related: The Truth About Exfoliating Cleansers: Should You Use Them?

Exception #2: Chemical Peels

Gone are the days when you could get a chemical peel only at the doctor’s office. The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution and Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial have brought these peels to the drugstore. This may surprise you, but I’m NOT happy about it. These high concentrations can be very irritating. They’re for people who built up tolerance to acids over the years, not someone who just wants to try what’s new at Sephora.

If your skin can take them, use them no more than once every 7/10 days. They remove way more dead cells than an acid toner or serum, so the risk of irritation is HIGH. DON’T use them as often. Less is more with peels.

Related: How To Use The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

What Happens When You Use AHAs/BHA Too Often?

Using AHAs/BHA too often terribly backfires. I totally get it you want to get rid of the dead skin cells that are roughening up your skin and stealing its glow. But you CAN’T remove ALL dead cells. You see, those cells are there for a reason. They protect the newer, healthier cells that aren’t ready to come to the surface yet. When you remove too many layers, you’re destroying your skin barrier and exposing skin that’s not ready to be exposed yet. It’s ugly. And it hurts like hell.

How do you know you’ve gone overboard? Your skin will let you know. Look for signs of irritation like dryness, flaky patches, the appearance of redness. If your skin suddenly starts complaining, it’s time to give the acids a rest. Stop exfoliating, keep your skincare routine simple (this means staying away from harsh active ingredients like retinol and benzoyl peroxide and keeping skincare products to a minimum) and let your skin recover before introducing AHAs or BHA products again.

What Are The Best Chemical Exfoliants?

• Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): This exfoliant has both salicylic acid to unclog pores and glycolic acid to fade away the dark spots pimples sometimes leave behind. And, just like all the options on this list, no fragrance. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK.
• Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($37.00): The cult BHA liquid exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice and SpaceNK.
• The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2% ($9.20): A simple Lactic Acid exfoliant enriched with Hyaluronic Acid to provide gentle exfoliation and hydration skin at the same time. Available at Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta.

Related: 5 Skincare Treatments That Can Ruin Your Skin (If Abused)

FAQs

Can You Use AHA And BHA Together In The Same Routine?

Only if they’re in the same bottle already. Like, the formula’s designed that way so it won’t wreck you. But don’t go grabbing two separate products thinking you’re gonna double your results. You’ll just end up with angry red skin wondering what went wrong. Pick one acid. Use that one. Done.

What Should You Apply After Using AHA Or BHA?

Wait like a minute, throw on your hyaluronic acid serum and moisturizer. That’s it. Oh and wear sunscreen tomorrow – I know, I know, everyone says this but seriously, acids increase sun sensitivity. You’ll undo everything if you skip it and then you’re back to square one looking worse than when you started.

Can You Use Vitamin C With AHA Or BHA?

Yes! Just use vitamin C in the morning and AHAs/BHA at night. Layering them together can increase the risk of dryness and irritation, so why put your skin through that when you can get the benefits of both by using them at different times of the day?

How Long Does It Take To See Results From AHA Or BHA?

Your skin’ll look radiant in a couple of days. For smoothness, it takes 2-4 weeks. But if you want the real results (fading those dark spots, reducing bumps, minimising the look of fine lines, getting your pores actually clean) you’re waiting 2-3 months. Yeah it takes forever. That’s just how it is. Don’t be one of those people who quits after a week.

Can You Use AHA Or BHA With Retinol?

Yes, but use them on different nights. Both retinol and exfoliating acids can cause dryness and irritation, so layering them together is asking for trouble. Use AHAs/BHA one night and retinol the next. You’ll get the benefits of both without putting your skin through unnecessary irritation.

Can You Use AHA Or BHA On Mature Skin?

Absolutely! AHAs are particularly good for mature skin. They help improve uneven skin tone, smooth out rough texture, and bring back that youthful radiance. Glycolic acid is my favourite here. Just don’t go overboard with exfoliation. More isn’t better, especially if your skin is getting drier with age.

Should You Apply AHA Or BHA Before Or After Moisturiser?

Before. Apply a light layer of your AHA or BHA exfoliant after cleansing, then follow up with your favourite moisturising cream or lotion. No need to complicate things. Just cleanse, exfoliate, moisturise. Done.

Should You Exfoliate More Often If You Have Excess Oil?

Not necessarily. A BHA exfoliant like salicylic acid is great for getting inside your pores and clearing out the excess oil and gunk that cause blackheads. But exfoliating more often than your skin can tolerate won’t give you better results. It’ll just leave you with irritation on top of your oily skin. No thanks!

Can You Use AHA Or BHA With An Exfoliating Scrub?

I wouldn’t. AHAs and BHA already remove dead skin cells, so why add a scrub to the mix? You’re just increasing the risk of irritation. Pick one exfoliating method and stick with it. Your skin doesn’t need a chemical exfoliant AND a scrub to get smooth and glowing.

The Bottom Line

Exfoliating acids are the quickest way to get a brighter, smoother complexion. But they can dry out and irritate skin if you overdo them. Use them in moderation!