Spotlight On Hydroquinone

by Gio
is hydroquinone the best way to treat dark spots

Isn’t it annoying when it’s the gold standard for something that gets a bad rep?

Case in point: hydroquinone. It’s by far the best treatment for any type of dark spots. Slather it on them and it’s guaranteed to lighten them up.

But, some countries (yes, South Africa and France, I’m looking at you) have banned it after rumours it causes cancer and other nasty stuff started doing the rounds.

Is this true? Are politicians really trying to protect us from serious harm or are they misunderstanding the science and being too hasty with their bans?

Hint: scientists say that a hydroquinone ban is an “unnecessarily extreme“.

Here’s the scoop on hydroquinone and why it’s not really that dangerous (but you should still use it with caution):

How does hydroquinone work?

Hydroquinone is very effective at treating sun spots, melasma, freckles, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and pretty much any other type of discolouration.

It works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase (the enzyme that controls the synthesis of melanin) and by increasing the cytotoxicity of melanocytes (it kills the cells that produce melanin).

In the US, hydroquinone can be used in concentrations up to 2% in OTC products and 4% in prescription products. Either way, make sure it’s housed in an air-tight, opaque tube. Hydroquinone oxidises (i.e. becomes ineffective) when exposed to light and air. You’ll know when this happen. Hydroquinone turns brown to warn you.

Does hydroquinone cause cancer?

According to the rumours, it does. The “proof”? Hydropquinone can cause cancer in rats.

Never mind that we’re not rays and that those poor animals were injected or fed high amounts of hydroquinone. *sighs* Anyone who understand how to read a scientific study will tell you that these studies simply don’t apply to humans. Especially not when humans use a tiny amount on a small area of skin.

Plus, as Dr Levitt points out in his The safety of hydroquinone: A dermatologist’s response to the 2006 Federal Register , hydroquinone increases benign liver tumours in mice but it DECREASES cancerous liver tumours. This suggests that hydroquinone may actually have a protective effect!

So, nope, there’s NO proof that hydroquinone causes cancer in humans.

Does hydroquinone cause ochronosis?

Ochr… WHAT?

Ochronosis. It’s a bluish black discoloration of the skin caused by a build-up of tyrosine or phenylalanine. It’s more common in people with dark skin but everyone can get it.

But it’s rare. According to Dr Levitt, “a literature review of exogenous ochronosis and clinical studies employing hydroquinone (involving over 10,000 exposures under careful clinical supervision) reveal an incidence of exogenous ochronosis in the United States of 22 cases in more than 50 years”.

Its rarity makes it difficult to figure out why it happens. It’s obvious hydroquinone alone can’t be the cause or everyone who uses it would get it.

The most popular theories believe you get ochronisis when you use hydroquinone with resorcinol (another ingredient that treats hyperpigmentation) or without sunscreen. If you don’t use one, the theory goes, your skin tends to produce more melanin to protect itself from the sun, compromising the efficacy of hydroquinone.

Bottom line: if you use hydroquinone with sunscreen and without resorcinol, you should be fine.

Can hydroquinone cause irritations and allergies?

It’s not over. Hydroquinone is accused of causing irritations and allergies, too.

If you have sensitive skin, hydroquinone is as guilty as charged. Like all the most powerful ingredients, its effectiveness comes at a cost: redness and irritations.

To minimize irritations, derms recommend you use hydroquinone in a 4 months cycle. This means using hydroquinone for 4 months, then switching to another skin-lighter (for example, azelaic acid) for 4 more months, then back to hydroquinone for 4 months. You get the drill.

Related: The Battle Of The Skin-Lighteners: What Is The Best Alternative To Hydroquinone?

What Are The Best Products With Hydroquinone?

SHOP THE POST

The bottom line

Hydroquinone is the most effective way to treat hyperpigmentation. It won’t give you cancer, rarely ochronosis and sometimes, irritations (but there are tricks to minimise this). Just remember to put your sunscreen on!

Do you use hydroquinone to deal with your dark spots? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

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10 comments

Brittany October 16, 2013 - 12:56 am

This is beyond helpful. I have a dark spot remover with hydroquinone in it and I’ve been on the fence about using it. I’m all over it now!

Reply
beautifulwithbrains October 18, 2013 - 11:52 am

Brittany, I’m glad you found it helpful. 🙂

Reply
Jennifer April 22, 2017 - 5:18 pm

From the article above, it looks like the reason for using Hydroquinone in cycles is to reduce irritation. Is this the only reason for cycling off of it? If I do not experience irritation (or if the irritation is tolerable), do I still need to cycle off of it? My dermatologist recommended 6 weeks on, 6 weeks off. Hydroquinone is extremely effective in controlling my melasma when I am on it, but within the first 2 weeks off the melasma comes right back, despite religious use and reapplication of broad-protection sunscreen (eltaMD). I have not tried alternating it with Kojic Acid, not sure why my dr has not recommended this solution.

Reply
Gio April 29, 2017 - 1:25 pm

Jennifer, yes you cycle it off to reduce its side effects. But I wouldn’t recommend alternating it with nothing. If you have melasma, you need to use something else in the meantime. Kojic acid may help. You could also try azelaic acid.

Reply
Devika September 26, 2018 - 1:24 pm

I have been using melacare for two month (2%hq,tretinoin.025,mometasone fu
Orate .1%
Preservativee:methyl paraben ip 0.18%, propyl paraben .02%
Hyperpigmentation had faded
May I use eucerin even brighter which contain resorcinol during the off period.

Reply
Gio September 26, 2018 - 7:07 pm

Devika, yes, you can.

Reply
Tatiana November 18, 2018 - 5:19 am

It’s ok to use all over the face or shoul I use only on top of the dark spots?

Reply
Gio November 23, 2018 - 12:25 pm

Tatiana, only on dark spots.

Reply
Vickie February 18, 2019 - 1:45 pm

Hi. Your information is so helpful. How would I layer hydroquinone with tretinoin? I’m not sure which to use first. Also, how long would I wait between applying products? Till they’re dry? Most websites give contradictory information. Thank you!

Reply
Gio February 20, 2019 - 5:33 pm

Vicky, as tretinoin is a prescription medication, I advise you to talk your doctor about how to use it with hydroquinone.

Reply

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