Did you know that Vitamin C and water don’t get along?
When they’re at the same party, you need to lower the ph to less than 3.5 to get Vitamin C to work (a lower ph = higher risk of irritation).
Even then, Vitamin C ain’t happy. Even a few drops of water make it oxidise (i.e. lose effectiveness) faster.
A lot of formulators get around this by using a more stable derivative of Vitamin C, but those usually aren’t as powerful as L-Ascorbic Acid, the pure, water-hating original.
Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 took a different approach. Instead of removing the pure form of Vitamin C that’s such a pain to formulated with, it got rid of the water instead.
Does this tactic work better? Let’s take a look:
Two things happen when you use Ascorbic Acid in an water-free (anhydrous) product:
- It remains effective for longer: water speeds up the oxidisation process, making Vitamin C go bad quickly.
- It penetrates your skin better: usually if the Ph isn’t low enough, Vitamin C won’t work. Water-free products have no ph so Vitamin C can just get in and do its thing.
So, what is this thing? Well, it’s more than one. Ascorbic Acid has a few superpowers:
- Antioxidant: it destroys free radicals in two ways “directly, by reaction with aqueous peroxyl radicals, and indirectly, by restoring the antioxidant properties of fat-soluble vitamin E.”
- Collagen-booster: it is essential for the synthesis of collagen, the protein that keeps skin elastic. When it’s around, it pumps its production up a notch or two.
- Skin-brightener: it speeds up the skin’s natural exfoliating process, brightening the complexion and fading dark spots.
If you’re worried about anti-aging, you need Vitamin C in your arsenal.
P.S. Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 contains 22% Ascorbic Acid, the same concentration used in studies to measure its ability to boost collagen. Basically, there’s enough here for it to work its magic.
Related: What Does Vitamin C In Skincare Do?
Sodium Hyaluronate is a form of Hyaluronic Acid. That’s a humectant that draws moisture from the environment into your skin and binds it there.
Sodium Hyaluronate does this particularly well – it can bind up to 1000 times its weight in water! Plus, when applied to dry skin, it settles into wrinkles and swells up. It’s a trick that makes your wrinkles and fine lines look smaller (for a while).
Yep, Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 is a silicone based cream. I know, I know. But hear me out before you start hating on silicones.
Silicones have a special molecular structure. It’s made up of large molecules with gaps between them. This allows it to create a protective barrier that allows active ingredients to get through and your skin to perspire.
Translation: silicones won’t suffocate your skin. I repeat: silicones WON’T suffocate your skin.
You know what they do instead? All this:
- Settle into fine lines and wrinkles, making them look smaller
- Smoothen out the complexion
- Make skin feel silky soft to the touch
- Helps the serum spread easily on the skin
Granted, all these benefits are temporary. But there’s enough Vitamin C here to give you the long-term benefits you crave.
Let’s Put It Too The Test: Personal Use & Opinion
You can tell Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 is loaded with silicones. The slightly, thick, silky soft texture gives away the secret during the first application. I personally love the feel of silicones on my skin, but I know this is very personal. If you can’t stand it, this is a no-go for you.
The other problem with silicones like Dimethicone? They’re water-repellent. If you apply a water-based moisturiser on top, it tends to ball up (yes, I’ve discovered that the hard way). I get around this by using it in the morning with a facial oil (Inlight Beauty Face Oil, in case you’re interested – review coming soon!). Problem solved!
One more thing: my skin is pretty resilient, but even so, the first couple of times I’ve used this cream, it stung a little bit. That’s totally normal with high concentrations of Vitamin C. I’ve now built it up to daily use, but if your skin is more sensitive than mine, stick to two or three times a week.
FYI, the results are totally worth it: the cream smoothed out my skin and brightened my complexion. Now, it has a lovely radiant glow and looks softer to the touch, too. I don’t have any dark spots, but science has proved that this much Vitamin C can fade them, too.
Even though it’s loaded with Sodium Hyaluronate, I don’t find the formula very hydrating. I use a separate moisturiser (oil, actually), so this isn’t a biggie for me. But Sodium Hyaluronate does help minimise the look of my fine lines so it’s not totally useless. 🙂
Have you tried a water-free Vitamin C serum or cream? Share your experience in the comments below.
Available at: £24.99 at Look Fantastic
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Ingredients: DimethiconeI, Ascorbic Acid, Polysilicone-11, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Silica Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hualuronate
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