Last Updated on October 16, 2026 by Giorgia Guazzarotti

common pore myths busted

Ready to bust some pore myths? Like it or not, your pores are here to stay. There’s no way to get rid of them completely – unless you Photoshop them away. That’s a good thing. You have pores for a reason. Their job is to allow sebum (your skin’s natural moisturiser) to reach the surface of your skin and keep it soft and healthy. Without it, your skin would be a mess. But that doesn’t mean you’re doomed to large pores. You can make them look smaller… if you know how.

Pores can’t open and close like doors, hot and cold water won’t permanently change their size, and blackheads aren’t dirt. Genetics determines much of your natural pore size, but clogged pores, excess oil and loss of skin firmness can make them look bigger. Salicylic acid, retinoids and sunscreen can help minimise their appearance. So let’s get into it. Here are some common pore myths that get in the way of flawless skin (and what to do instead):

Pore Myth #1: Cold Water Can Close Pores…

Pores aren’t doors. They can’t open and close at will. So why do pores look smaller after you splash your face with cold water? Simple: colder temperatures cause changes in skin blood flow and can make your skin feel temporarily tighter. You’ve guessed it, the effect is only temporary. If you’re trying to shrink pores, this ain’t the way to go about it.

Related: 3 Ways To Shrink Large Pores (That Really Work)


Struggling to put together a skincare routine that absorbs excess oil, banishes acne, and shrinks large pores? Download your FREE “Best Skincare Routine For Oily Skin” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):


Pore Myth #2: …And Hot Water Can Open Them

These two myths go hand in hand. And why not? If cold water could close pores, it’d made sense for hot water to have the opposite effect. But you can’t close pores… and you can’t open them either. Not with hot water or with anything else.

All hot water (or better, the steam from hot water) does is to melt away the impurities lodged into your pores, so it’s easy to remove them. That’s why aestheticians often steam your face during facials.

Before you rush to steam your face, hear this: heat and hot water can dry out skin. If you like to take boiling hot showers in winter (or is that just me?), you know what I’m talking about. Steaming your face may be ok in moderation. Just don’t make it into a regular habit.

Related: Steam Facials: Do They Help Or Harm Skin?

Pore Myth #3: Your Pore Size Never Changes

The size of your pores is genetically determined. Nothing you do can make them smaller than that. But if your skin pumps out way more oil than it needs, you use products with comedogenic ingredients, or don’t remove makeup at night, all that gunk can end up in your pores and clog them up.

Overtime, these clogs get so big, they stretch your pores wide, making them look bigger than they naturally are. That’s a job for exfoliation. Doing it regularly can keep your pores clean and small. Your pores can get larger as you get older, too. When your skin’s natural production of collagen slows down, your pore walls can slacken and look bigger.

Retinol’s your BFF. This form of Vitamin A fights large pores on two fronts: it boosts collagen production and speeds up the skin’s exfoliating process. While it’s at it, and it reduces wrinkles, too.

Best Picks:

  • The Ordinary 1% Retinol In Squalane ($9.30): The strongest retinol concentration in a moisturising (and oily!) squalane base. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary and Ulta
  • Paula’s Choice Resist 1% Retinol Booster ($55.00): 1% retinol and plenty of antioxidants. You can use this alone or dilute it with your fave moisturiser to make it gentler on your skin. Available at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice
  • Peter Thomas Roth Night Infusion PM ($65.00): 1.5% retinol release gradually over a period of several hours to make it gentler on your skin. Has a moisturising squalane base and its fair share of antioxidants. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Peter Thomas Roth, Revolve, and Ulta

Related: The Complete Guide To Retinol: What It Is, What It Does & How To Use It

Pore Myth #4: Blackheads Are Dirt Stuck Inside Your Pores

Blackheads ain’t dirt. Unless by dirt you mean the mix of excess sebum and dead skin cells that’s stuck in your pores. When this sticky mix reaches the surface of your skin and comes in contact with air, it can oxidise (i.e. turn black). It usually happens on the t-zone (you have more sebaceous glands there), but if your skin’s very oily, they can pop up anywhere.

You can wash your face all you want, but you’ll only manage to dry it out. Your blackheads will stay put, as if nothing happened. The only way to get rid of blackheads is to use a salicylic acid exfoliant. Also called BHA, this exfoliant gets inside your pores to remove all the gunk from within.

Best Picks:

  • Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($90.00): Don’t let the name fool you. This exfoliant has both salicylic acid to unclog pores and glycolic acid to fade away the dark spots pimples sometimes leave behind. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK.
  • Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid ($37.00): The cult exfoliant from the brand, it unlclogs pores and treats blackheads and acne. The texture’s a little sticky, but if you can take that, this is one of the best salicylic acid exfoliants out there. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK.
  • The Inkey List Beta Hydroxy Acid (£9.99): A simple, no-frills salicylic acid exfoliant for people on a budget. Available at Cult Beauty.

Related: How To Use Salicylic Acid To Remove Blackheads

FAQ

Do Pore Strips Actually Work?

Nope. Seeing all that gunk stuck to a pore strip may be oddly satisfying, but don’t mistake that for proof your blackheads are gone. Pore strips only pull out the head of a blackhead, leaving the buildup lodged deeper inside your pores behind. And because they do nothing to stop oil and dead skin cells from piling up again, those pesky blackheads keep coming back. Worse, the adhesive can irritate your skin, especially if you use pore strips too often. All that pulling and tugging for nothing? No thanks.

Will Drinking More Water Help Shrink My Pores?

No. Just… no. Water’s great, drink it, stay hydrated, your body needs it. But it’s not gonna do anything for your pores. Your pore size is about genetics and what’s clogging them up, not how much water you’re chugging. Anyone telling you to “just drink more water” for your pores is either clueless or selling something.

Can Makeup Make My Pores Bigger?

It can, but not in the way you think. Some makeup formulas can clog your pores, and being lazy about taking them off sure as hell doesn’t help. If you’re piling on thick foundation every day and then face-planting into your pillow without washing it off, you’re giving oil, dead skin cells and makeup residue more chances to build up in your pores. And clogged pores = larger-looking pores. 

Are There Any Ingredients I Should Avoid If I Have Large Pores?

Heavy oils and thick creams are not your friends. Coconut oil, cocoa butter, super rich moisturizers – they can turn your pores into a clogged nightmare. Check for “non-comedogenic” on the label, but honestly, just watch how your own skin reacts. What clogs up your bestie’s pores might be fine for you and vice versa. Check out the list of comedogenic ingredients here.

Do Those Pore-Minimizing Primers Actually Work?

Yes, but only as a temporary optical illusion. Most use silicones to fill in the tiny gaps and uneven texture around your pores, creating a smoother surface that reflects light more evenly. The result? Your pores look smaller, but their actual size hasn’t changed one bit. Wash the primer off and your pores look exactly as they did before. They’re great for making makeup look smoother, but don’t expect them to unclog pores or make them smaller over time.

Can Sun Damage Make Pores Look Bigger?

Yes. The sun destroys collagen and elastin, which are basically what keep your pore walls tight. When those break down, your pores start sagging and looking huge. So yeah, wear your sunscreen. Every day. Even when it’s cloudy.

The Bottom Line

Pores aren’t doors. They can’t open or close. They don’t change size either. But you can make them look smaller by keeping them clean.