Just because a doctor recommends something, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is good. A few years ago, Dr Oz urged his viewers to put away their expensive and fancy creams and buy St Ives Timeless Skin Collagen Elastin Facial Moisturizer instead. Now, I agree with him that a lot of these fancy moisturizers are poorly formulated and way too overpriced, but I wouldn’t suggest the St Ives moisturizer as an alternative. Why? Its formula is SO dated.
What St Ives Says
This moisturizer, with collagen elastin proteins, hydrates for visibly softer, smoother skin.
Mineral oil has gained a bad reputation because it is derived from oil. But cosmetic grade mineral oil, the only type allowed to be used in cosmetics, has been highly purified. All the nasty stuff has been taken out of it, making it safe for use.
Mineral oil is an occlusive skin conditioning agent. It works by creating a barrier that prevents water loss, thus helping skin stay hydrated. Because of this, it is a great choice for dry skin.
Although mineral oil, on its own, isn’t comedogenic, it can cause breakouts when used with pore-clogging ingredients. That’s because it traps them beneath the barrier it creates. So, if you use it with other non-comedogenic products, you shouldn’t experience any side effects.
Propylene Glycol is another ingredient with an undeserved bad rep. It is true that, at 100% concentrations, it is an anti-freeze, but of course, no one puts that much into a cream! In cosmetics, where it is used in minuscule amounts, it is used as a humectant, which means it can attract water from the environment into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated. Propylene Glycol can also help other ingredients better penetrate into the superficial layers of the skin, although mineral oil may actually block that from happening.
Collagen and elastin
Collagen and elastin work together to keep skin elastic and smooth, but, when used in a lotion, they don’t have any anti-aging properties. That’s because their molecules are too big to penetrate the skin, so they just rest on its surface and hydrate it. That’s it.
Final considerations on the formula
Is St Ives Timeless Skin Collagen Elastin Facial Moisturizer a good moisturizer? Yep. Problem is, moisturizing skin is all it does. The formula doesn’t contain antioxidants, nicinamide, retinoids, sunscreen agents, or ahas, all ingredients proven to help skin remain healthy and look younger for longer. Twenty years ago, this may have been a decent formula, but in 2014, a cream should do more than just hydrate skin, even at this low price point. And the jar packaging? I usually don’t like it because it doesn’t keep light-sensitive ingredients effective for long, but there’s nothing in here that can go bad when exposed to light and air.
Full ingredient list
Water (Aqua, Eau), Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum, Huile Minerale), Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance (Parfum), Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Geraniol
The Bottom Line
St Ives Timeless Skin Collagen Elastin Facial Moisturizer is a very basic moisturizer. It will hydrate your skin, but don’t expect anything more. That’s why I recommend this cream only to acne-free teenagers who have great skin to begin with,and aren’t yet interested in anti-aging creams, and only have a small budget to satisfy their skincare needs.
Have you tried St Ives Timeless Skin Collagen Elastin Facial Moisturizer? If so, what do you think of it?