“You don’t have to tell me what to do,” Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum boasts. “Just put me on your skin and I’ll figure out the damaged areas that need fixing.”
“Erm… how?” I want to know.
“Easy peasy,” the serum says, “different kinds of damage – like, let’s say, dark spots or loss of elasticity – send different signals. I intercept these and spring into action, giving them exactly what they need.”
“Sorry, mate, but if that were even possible, every serum would do it.” 🙄
It’s incredible what marketers make up these days, isn’t it? At least, this time there’s some real gold under the hype. Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum may not be the miracle worker it claims to be, but it sure has some good things going for it:
Key Ingredients In Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum
Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum contains its fair share of silicones.
Some, like cyclopentasiloxane, help the serum spread on the skin before evaporating into thin air.
Others, like dimothicone, stay around, filling in fine lines and wrinkles so they look smaller. They also create a breathable barrier that prevents water loss but still allows active ingredients to get through.
I know a lot of you don’t like silicones. If they’re all a product has (like too often happens), I’d agree with you. But here, they just play supporting characters to all the goodies below. I’m fine with that.
Related: Are Silicones Bad For Skin?
Ascorbyl glucoside is a stable form of Vitamin C. Translation: it lasts (and works for) longer, even in the presence of air and light.
Once it penetrates your skin, ascorbic glucoside breaks down into L-Ascorbic Acid, the pure form of Vitamin C. Here’s what it does:
- has antioxidant properties that fight free radicals
- stimulate the production of collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm
- inhibits the synthesis of melanin, fading away dark spots and hyperpigmentation
Vitamin C ain’t the only thing in Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum that can fade away dark spots.
To give credit where credit is due, “the anti-melanogenesis effect was highest with oxyresveratrol“, while Mulberroside F is quite weak and not as effective as Kojic Acid.
The catch? These studies were done on animals or petri dishes. We don’t know if they do the same on humans yet.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 & Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Let’s rewind a little, shall we? How can Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum get away with claiming the serum can identify and target problem areas on its own?
Enter Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 & Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, two peptides with cell-communicating properties. In other words, these peptides stay on top of the skin, where they tell skin cells what to do.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, for example, tell skin cells to produce more collagen. In theory, this gives you firmer skin. In practice, it’s not clear how well it really works.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, a.k.a Argireline, is called “Botox in a jar.” Like Botox, it works by relaxing facial muscles so they can’t move. No movement = no wrinkles (no wrinkles caused by repeated facial movements, anyway. You’ll still get wrinkles from sun exposure).
Sounds too good to be true? It sort of is. A 2002 study (the only one I could find) shows that an “oil/water (O/W) emulsion containing 10% of the hexapeptide on healthy women volunteers reduced wrinkle depth up to 30% upon 30 days treatment”.
But… not for everyone. Argireline doesn’t diffuse through the skin well. If your skin is thick, chances are it won’t do anything for you.
FYI, peptides may tell cells what to do but they can’t travel to these cells. They stay put where you apply them.
Their job is to destroy free radicals before they give you wrinkles. Use them regularly and you’ll age way more slowly.
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The Bottom Line
Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum has what it takes to prevent wrinkles, mask the ones you already have and fade dark spots. It may also boost collagen a little bit.
Ingredients: Water, Isododecane, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-6, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Extract, Morus Nigra (Mulberry) Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barely) Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Cucumis Sativa (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Algae Extract, Plankton Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis (St. Paul’s Wort) Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat Germ) Extract, Glycerin, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Yeast Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Ergothioneine, Whey Protein, Polysorbate 20, Micrococcus Lysate, Cholesterol, DI-C-12-18 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride, Salicylic Acid, Isohexadecane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Caffeine, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Dimethoxytolyl Propylresorcinol, Synthetic Fluorogopite, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Tromethanmine, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium RNA, Squalane, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, PEG-8, Lecithin, Hexylene Glycol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Tin Oxide, Disodium EDTA, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Yellow 5, Red 4, Titanium Dioxide
Have you tried Clinique Smart Custom Repair Serum? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
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