Best known for her beauty segments on Extra TV, and TLC’s Style by Jury, Jamie Sherrill, aka “Nurse Jamie”, has been taking care of celebrities’ skin for decades. The owner of the Beauty Park Medical Spa in Los Angeles and Abu Dhabi, Jamie routinely treats her clients with the latest medical devices and cutting-edge products.
But her exclusive clientele travels far and wide, and doesn’t always have the time to visit one of her spas. So, they started asking her for something they could take on the road with them to maintain the results of their favourite treatments.
Jamie listened, and created Nurse Jamie Healthy Skin Solutions, a luxury skincare range, recently launched in Harrods, that features the latest breakthrough ingredients in skincare. But is it really worth its high price tag? To find out, let’s take a closer look at some of her best-selling products:
One Step Age Delay Cleanser ($62.00)
Wouldn’t it be wonderful if a cleanser could delay the signs of ageing? Unfortunately, that’s still wishful thinking. Although this cleanser contains powerful antioxidants Vitamins A (retinyl palmitate) and E (Tocopheryl Acetate), and Palmitoyl Olygopeptide, a peptide said to stimulate collagen production, these ingredients work best when left on the skin, nor rinsed off after a couple of minutes.
Although it can’t help you fight premature ageing, this cleanser is very effective at gently cleansing skin without irritating it. Paraffinum Liquidum (mineral oil) dissolves all traces of makeup and other impurities, while Glycerin hydrates skin. This combination leaves your skin clean and soft.
A gentle and effective, but very expensive, cleanser particularly suitable for dry and sensitive skin. But it can’t help fight premature ageing.
Water (Aqua), Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Silica, Cetyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Eucalyptus Radiata (Eucalyptus) Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Retinyl Palmitate, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance (Parfum)
Calming Relief Soothing Moisturizer ($68.00)
Especially formulated for blemish-prone and polysensitive skin types, this moisturizer promises to calm irritations while nourishing skin. How? It contains chamomile and calendula extracts, both of which have anti-inflammatory properties.
Borago officinalis seed oil is more controversial. It has been used to treat atopic dermatitis with variable results, “with the effect reported to be significant in five studies, insignificant in five studies, and mixed in two studies”. But, “the majority of studies showed at least a small degree of efficacy”. In any case, all these ingredients are present in only tiny amounts.
The bulk of the formula is made up of humectants (like Glycerin), that draw water from the environment into the skin, thus hydrating it, and emollients (such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Sunflower Seed Oil Unsaponifiables) that make skin soft and smooth. Together, these ingredients moisturize skin, preventing it from becoming dry.
An expensive moisturizer with some anti-inflammatory properties.
Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Cetereth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Carbomer, Sorbitan Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Zinc Oxide, Potassium Sorbate, Methylisothiazolinone, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
EGFStem Cell Complex ($125.00)
EGFStem Cell Complex features the hottest new ingredients in skincare – Epidermal Growth Factor, Plant Stem Cells and Peptides – but are they the most effective too? Not really.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 (Matrixyl Synthe’6) is said to boost the production of collagen and hylauronic acid, both necessary to keep skin elastic, firm, and younger-looking, but the only studies that prove its effectiveness were conducted by the manufacturer. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t work, only that we need confirmation from independent studies before raving about, and splurging on, it.
Plant stem cells, instead, don’t work. They may have some antioxidant activity, but there is no way apple or grape stem cells can turn into human cells and regenerate skin. Epidermal growth factors are even worse. They increase the division of cells within the skin, which helps wounds heal faster and possibly even speed up the growth and regeneration process of new skin cells.
But this over-proliferation of cells could have frightening consequences, and could even cause cancer. We don’t know yet if it is that dangerous when topically applied on the skin in tiny amounts (probably not), but why risk it when most of the research on its benefits was conducted by the manufacturer? Independent research so far has only proven its wound-healing properties, and most of us don’t need that.
The rest of the formula is made up of emollients that make skin soft and smooth, silicones that temporarily fill in fine lines and wrinkles, and antioxidants that help keep premature ageing at bay. But these ingredients can be found in most moisturizers. No need to spend so much on one with controversial ingredients to enjoy their benefits.
I’m not a fan. It contains too many ingredients that haven’t been proven by independent research to work yet, and some that could even be dangerous.
Water (Aqua), Ethyl Macadamiate, Octyldodecanol,Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oleth-10 Phosphate, Cetyl Esters, Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Tribehenin, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Phospholipids, rH-Oligopeptide-1, Isomalt, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Cell Extract, Algae Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xantham Gum, Glycerin, Lecithin, Allantoin, Dimethyl Lauramine Oleate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Propylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fragrance (Parfum)
EGF Platinum 3Restorative Facial Elixir ($198.00)
Tell your friends you’re using a facial elixir with platinum, and they’ll probably die of envy. But should they? Not really. Although there is some evidence that nano-sized platinum can have a protective effect against UV-induced inflammation, it is still a heavy metal and could cause trouble if it accumulates in the body.
That’s unlikely to happen, though. Why? Because platinum costs about $1,500 an ounce, so I doubt there is much of it in this elixir. Most of the formula is actually made up of moisturizing oils that replenish moisture and leave skin soft and smooth. Also included is Acetyl Tetrapeptide-17, which, according to the manufacturer, can make skin less sensitive to inflammation.
An overpriced, moisturizing elixir best suited for dry skin.
Caryodendron Orinocense Nut Oil, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Colloidal Platinum, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Oil, Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-17, Red 17 (CI 26100)
The Bottom Line
Although I appreciate Nurse Jamie’s use of new and innovative ingredients, most of them have been barely studied. That means that we still don’t know how well they work and what side effects they have. Until we know more, proceed with caution.
Have you ever tried anything from Nurse Jamie?