Featuring both peptides and stem cells, MyChelle Apple Brightening Serum has a cutting-edge formula that promises to get rid of dark spots and wrinkles. But have these breakthrough ingredients really proven their efficacy yet, or is adding them in skincare products a bit premature? Let’s investigate:
What MyChelle Says
Advanced formula combines clinically proven ingredients to rapidly diminish the appearance of discoloration and sun-damage. Apple Plant Stem Cells trigger skin’s natural regenerative process while reducing line depth up to 15% in just 4 weeks. Breakthrough peptide Melanostatine®5 interrupts the reaction that causes hyperpigmentation to deliver a 33% improvement in skin’s tone and clarity.
Made up of 9 amino acids, Nonapeptide-1 is said to be able to stop the development of dark spots in their tracks. How? By preventing the activation of tyrosinase (the enzyme that controls the production of melanin) and blocking melanin synthesis.
According to Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, the company that sells Nonapeptide-1, it shows “clinical efficacy on Asian skin with a significant lightening effect after only 28 days”. Sadly, as it often happens with peptides, there is no independent study that confirms this claim yet. Luckily, the formula contains another, proven-to-work, skin-lightening agent, but more on that later.
Apple Stem Cells
Stem cells are very interesting because they have the potential of becoming any other cells in the organism they belong to. Thus, human stem cells could become new young skin cells. That’s why companies add them to their products, claiming they can rejuvenate skin, reduce wrinkles, and maintain healthy elastin fibers.
But there are two problems with this. First of all, to work, stem cells must be kept alive. Those added to skincare products are dead, and if not, they’d soon be anyway. No one has yet figured out how to keep stem cells alive in a skincare product.
Even if someone did figure out how to solve that issue, stem cells derived from plants won’t do skin much good. Apple stem cells, the type used here, are programmed to turn into any part of the apple plant as needed. There is no way they can ever turn into human skin. So, what’s the point of adding them anyway? Marketing. Stem cells make a great story, but one that’s way too good to be true.
Witch Hazel Water
Although witch hazel has some anti-irritant properties, it also contain compounds that could be irritating for some people, especially those with sensitive skin. They are tannins, powerful antioxidants that can constrict blood flow.
It’s true these aren’t present in witch hazel water, but they are what give witch hazel its astringent properties and, without them, it’s dubious how useful this ingredient is. In addition, alcohol is also used in the distillation process, and that could irritate skin too.
I have mentioned the formula contains another skin-lightening agent, one that science has proved really works. That’s niacinamide. In 2002, a group of researchers found that moisturizers and sunscreens with 2% and 5% niacinamide “significantly decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness compared with vehicle alone after 4 weeks of use”.
But that’s not all. Niacinamide can also hydrate skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve elasticity, treat acne, and soothe rosacea. It’s a wonderful multi-tasker everyone should incorporate in their skincare routine.
Further considerations on the formula
Witch hazel water is not the only irritating ingredient in the formula. Citrus extracts and Alcohol Denat are present as well and they can irritate skin too. The latter can also dry it out. So, why is alcohol used here? Probably to thin out the formula and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
After niacinamide, the best thing about this formula is Ascorbic Acid (L), a powerful form of Vitamin C that can lighten hyperpigmentation, fight free radicals, and boost collagen production. But even they can’t to much to improve a formula full of useless and irritating ingredients.
Full Ingredient List
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Aqua (Water), Glycer in (Vegetable), Niacinamide (B3), Pyrust Malus (Apple) Fruit, Polysorbate 20 (Plant), Alcohol Denatured (Grain), Nonapeptide-1 (Melanostatine®5), Dextran (Plant), Rumex Occidentalis Extract (Yellow Dock), Malus Domestica (Apple) Fruit Cell Culture (PhytoCellTec™), Malic Acid (L) (Apple), Ascorbic Acid (L), Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract (Applephenon™), Gallic Acid (Plant), Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta (Neem Leaf) Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum (Giant Knotweed/Resveratrol) Extract, Citrus Grandis (Red Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Leci thin, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance/Parfum (Natural), Phytic Acid (Rice), Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum (Fermented Sugar)
MyChelle Apple Brightening Serum, which is packaged in a 1oz tube, is available at mychelle.com. It costs $46.00.
The Bottom Line
MyChelle Apple Brightening Serum contains skin-lightening niacinamide and antioxidant Ascorbic Acid to help reduce dark spots and prevent wrinkles. Unfortunately, the formula is also full of irritating and useless ingredients that do skin no good.
Have you tried MyChelle Apple Brightening Serum?